Levelling a kitchen floor

[unseen]

Afternoon chaps..

I'm after some advice regarding my kitchen floor. Many moons ago when we first moved in all the old units were ripped out and temporarily replaced as they gave up (kitchen by that point was 20+ yrs old). What we found as we ripped them out was nice cabinet shaped holes in the floor!.. It looks like the cabinets were initially installed on the original solid floor (possibly flags, but found concrete patches as well) then someone poured what I can only guess is Bitumen I assume to give a level surface to a depth of about 1".

Without ripping up and starting again, could I use concrete to fill the gaps created from ripping out the cabinets and also if nessacery use a floor levelling mix?

Thanks

 

[mack4]

I think you should check if you have a DPM before doing anything.The presence of bitumen on top of flagstones sounds a bit suspicious.
mack

 

[mac391]

The bitumen is a DPM !!

Yes, fill the holes with pea gravel concrete but then use a neat neoprene primer before you lay your screed, preferably a latex screed if there a are flags underneath..

 

[mack4]

If the bitumen is 1" thick it will be asphalt, usually installed in wet/damp situations.Check the rest of the floor has a DPM.
mack

 

[andeehunt]

What would be the next step if the rest of the floor has a DPM.

 

[unseen]

I did wonder if it was a DPM of some kind. Depth is approx 1" of Asphalt/Bitumen measuring where I've removed the cabinets. This covers the majority of the kitchen floor. And where I can see concrete I have spotted plastic at the edge's, I'm assuming thats a DPM under the concrete?

I was thinking of screeding over the whole floor with Ball Stopgap green after using their neoprene sealer. Would this be suitable for the job? Can it be done in stages?? Possibly a stupid question but being able to do it in 2 halfs would make life much eaiser.

 

[mack4]

Best to do it in one operation,but if it's 'got' to be done in two,so be it.The Ball stopgap green should be OK with their sealer.I prefer Ardex myself, bit more expensive but I've found it easier to work with.
This should've answered your Q too 'andeehunt'. Good luck.
mack

 

[unseen]

Just before I get cracking on leveling with the concrete first should I put another dpm under the patches I'll be doing or would it be counter productive to the existing DPM?

Sorry if it's a stupid question, but want to do it properly first time.

Cheers!

 

[mack4]

You still sound unsure,about this if you're in doubt ,why not go for a liquid DPM over the "whole" floor then screed.Story ended!
mack

 

[unseen]

Hi Mack,

Not so much unsure, just want to do it right and not cause any future issues. Just to confirm I've had a further look and can deffinately see plastic at the edges of the concrete that can be seen.

Thanks