Lowering a ceiling

[jstrong]

I'm looking to lower my ceiling by around 25mm and wondered what the correct method would be?

Someone has mentioned cross battening but what about just adding 50mm x 25mm battens to the existing joists or is there a reason for running the battens crossways?

Also any ideas on what type of insulation is best for a ceiling void, (needs to be 100mm apparently).

Any advice appreciated.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

You fix battens perpendicular because it is the easiest way to do it!
You will find out when you start.
100mm insulation for what?

 

[jstrong]

PBD

Can you explain why it's easier doing the battoning perpendicular to the joists?

The 100mm insulation is for sound proofing!

Integral garage has been converted to habitable space and BC have asked me to put 100mm insulation in the ceiling void, just wondered what the most suitable type of insulation might be!
He mentioned quilted, is that loft type insulation?

Thanks in advance.

 

[handyman77]

If you want the insulation fr soundproofing make sure its acoustic grade! Not the cheap sh!te from wickes!

 

[jstrong]

Noseall

Any idea's?

 

[mointainwalker]

@handyman

If you want the insulation fr soundproofing make sure its acoustic grade! Not the cheap **** from wickes!

Can you explain what the difference is ?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

PBD

Can you explain why it's easier doing the battoning perpendicular to the joists?

It allows you more accurate measurements for the spacing/centres, if you copy what is already there, if they are out of line or not spaced right you will have to work with that problem. If you fix perpendicular, you can make the alterations to suit the boards and the design of the room.
Hope this helps!

 

[handyman77]

@handyman

If you want the insulation fr soundproofing make sure its acoustic grade! Not the cheap **** from wickes!

Can you explain what the difference is ?

Its higher density than your average shed rockwool, hence why its so expensive in comparision!

 

[mointainwalker]

[/quote]Its higher density than your average shed rockwool, hence why its so expensive in comparision![/quote]

So you just buy the cheap subsidised stuff and compress it and you will achieve the same result ( which in any case won't be brilliant ) for 10% of the price. It pays not to believe everything manufacturers say/write about their products

 

[handyman77]

You do that then! You only asked what the difference is! If hes only looking to fill it to 100 mm how are you going to compress it and get it to stay there and be dense enough for the soundproofing! Have you actually seen/felt the difference between the two?

 

[jstrong]

Just off to get my timber for the cross battening, decided to go for 38mm x 47mm if that's ok?

Any idea's on correct spacing? I'll be using sheets of 1.2M x 2.4M so would 600mm centres be adequate?

Thanks in advance again

 

[handyman77]

You want 400 centers but allow the,last one to catch both boards

 

[jstrong]

Handynan

Sorry, can you explain?

This is what i've got.........

I've removed a load bearing wall and replaced with a steel (the joists have been cut and now they rest on a flange welded to the steel. This flange protrudes into the room slightly hence the need to lower the ceiling slightly in order to achieve a flush ceiling throughout the room.

So, i've got 14 joists either side of the steel beam, each one resting on the flange almost in the centre of the room with the other end of each joist resting on brickwork.

I've been and got 47mm x 47mm timber (enough for 400 centres).

The length of the joists on one side of the steel from wall to flange are 3.4 and on the other side they are 2.35 from the other wall to the other side of the flange. The flange is 300mm wide.

How would you say the best way to batten would be?