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Mounting projector on a board into joists

Discussion in 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' started by sunshinewelly, 8 Nov 2017.

  1. Ady J

    Ady J

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    if your worried use a thin sheet of wood but put a thin steel plate on it too, maybe stainless steel would look brilliant
    google the metal store they will send you a 2mm to your size , you drill the holes and of course use thin nut/bolt

    big screws to go into joist to be super safe

    I have to do this myself soon and I'll do this way as the stainless steel really does look good although projector is in way if its hanging close to the ceiling
     
  2. rsgaz

    rsgaz

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    It'll be quicker with a small chisel. Or use a spade bit to make the counter-bore, but make sure you do that before enlarging the hole to the full diameter, the spike needs something to centre on.

    Or scrap the T nuts idea and just go with threaded inserts...

    [​IMG]

    Just a single, normal hole to drill of the correct diameter all the way through the board.
     
  3. sunshinewelly

    sunshinewelly

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    If I use 18mm ply and t nuts I assume I need 20 mm bolts. screwfix sellots of m6 ones. Are there any that are more suitable to the t nuts than others

    Also last question I promise

    What screws should I get for attaching board to joists. How long and or thick etc. I don't want the board to come down
     
    Last edited: 10 Nov 2017
  4. Ian H

    Ian H

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    You would need longer than thatdepending on how thick the part of the projector that the bolts go through is.
     
  5. Tigercubrider

    Tigercubrider

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    not sure what you mean?
    Buy ply that is suitable for the depth of the T nuts. ( or vice versa)
    when the T nuts are properly drawn in, they will be almost level with the top of the ply - as near as dam it. (2mm?)

    sorry - this was to the router question.

    you may need to cut the bolts down so that they are a bang on fit.
    If cutting a thread, fit a nut and use that as a guide on the bit that you wish to keep.
    The Nut can then be used to fix any damage to the thread when cutting
     
  6. Ian H

    Ian H

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    If the part of the projector that the bolt goes through is 10mm then you would want a bolt nearer 30mm.
     
  7. sunshinewelly

    sunshinewelly

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    Cheers again. The mount plate is probably a couple of mm thick. I assume I don't need the length of the t nut to go all the way through the ply

    Was looking at 9mm t nuts and 18 mm ply
     
  8. Ady J

    Ady J

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    I wouldn’t go into plasterboard alone , defo find where the joist’s are to properly fix into those
     
  9. sunshinewelly

    sunshinewelly

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    I have located the joists. Plan is to use the plywood board to span the gap and attach the plywood board with the mount already attached to the joists.

    I assume 3 screws each end of board into joists will suffice. I will be sitting under projector so don't want the thing coming off ceiling

    Are there are any specific wood screws I should be using. Looking online there seems to be loads of various types.
     
  10. Ady J

    Ady J

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    Great!

    I’d use bigger standard wood screws about 2” long-esh , the thicker ones too

    Do a pilot hole but not to big of a drill bit , then put some muscle into driving in each screw so you have total peace of mind that each one could hold the weight of a man ( this method will only need 1 screw each corner & will be very strong )

    You’ll defo be thinking each screw could hold the weight of a few men easy as your sweating tightening each one up !
    ( or should be )

    My projector was expensive + it’s pretty big & heavy , when extension built this is what I’ll do
     
  11. sunshinewelly

    sunshinewelly

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  12. sunshinewelly

    sunshinewelly

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  13. sunshinewelly

    sunshinewelly

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    Are these wood screws 1510399328697123163373.jpg
     
  14. sunshinewelly

    sunshinewelly

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    Would a melamine shelf be strong enough to use as a board
     
  15. Ady J

    Ady J

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    screws look good, when you screw make sure your getting a good tight firm fix,
    I would have gone for the thicker ones to be extra safe, but as long as all tight when your screwing in it should be solid
    change to thicker screws (the ones I have in mind are those wood yellow-ish/copper looking ones) if you don't feel confident that
    they are not super tight, do small pilot hole
     
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