Moving a light fitting.

[D4N1EL]

Hi,

I want to move a light fitting, I've done this before with no problem.

This time how ever, the wires are not long enough to put the light fitting where I want it.

Is it OK to add about 2ft of wiring with chocolate blocks or do I have to replace the whole wire with a longer piece?

If I can just add a piece of wire, what kind of wire do I need?

Thanks

 

[ericmark]

There are junction boxes made for the job both maintenance free

and the old screw type

 

[D4N1EL]

Great, that was my next question!

So I take it, it's OK?

What wires do I use?

Is it ok to put the junction box under insulation or should I leave it on top?

 

[winston1]

1.0 mm twin and earth is used for lighting circuits.

 

[D4N1EL]

Thanks

 

[ban-all-sheds]

There are junction boxes made for the job both maintenance free

and the old screw type

There are also MF ones made by the people who make the screw-terminal type you show, and I would strongly advise using them instead of the Wago one.

Not because there's anything wrong (electrically) with the Wago solution, except that it is a horribly wrong-headed one which should never have seen the light of day and which therefore should be deprecated.

 

[Iggifer]

Not because there's anything wrong (electrically) with the Wago solution, except that it is a horribly wrong-headed one which should never have seen the light of day and which therefore should be deprecated.

What is wrong-headed about the wago-box? There have been numerous occasions where a J803/J804 has been unsuitable and I've needed to use a Wagobox. I do love the J501 as an alternative to a brown JB though.

 

[ericmark]

I also think the box with built in connectors is a better box, never really liked the push in connector when I first came across them in 1980, at that time you could not remove wires, it was a case of chop off and start again, and without the release hole it was really solid wire only or at least if you did use flex it needed tinning first. As years went on I found the maintenance free used more and more, specially with machinery mounted on metal frames, where both terminals coming loose and necking off was all too common.

However in the restricted space the idea of connecting cables then sliding the box with cable grips over the terminals after does have some advantages. Since not a domestic electrician I did not do main jobs needing wires pushing into ceiling space, so can't really say which is best. All I wanted to do was show you did not need to use simple choc blocks.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

What is wrong-headed about the wago-box?

Unless there's been a recent change it's not made by Wago, so there's the potential for incompatibilities when/if Wago make any changes. But my concern is that for the installer to have to use the correct combination of items from two different makers in order to produce a compliant MF JB, with the situation that no matter what is inside the box, on the outside it still claims MF status, there is the potential for mistakes or for deliberate non-compliance.

If it hasn't already happened, I'm sure that most people who think about it, and consider the various abominations they've encountered in the past, would agree that one day someone will open up a box which says it's MF and find bits of choc-block, or wirenuts, or twisted and taped conductors inside.

To deliberately create the products which would facilitate that does seem to me to have been a Bad Idea.

 

[D4N1EL]

Would something like this from screwfix be suitable?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/debox-in-line-connector-box/8692h

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It's not Maintenance Free, so will it be accessible for inspection and testing?

 

[Iggifer]

Unless there's been a recent change it's not made by Wago, so there's the potential for incompatibilities when/if Wago make any changes. But my concern is that for the installer to have to use the correct combination of items from two different makers in order to produce a compliant MF JB, with the situation that no matter what is inside the box, on the outside it still claims MF status, there is the potential for mistakes or for deliberate non-compliance.

If it hasn't already happened, I'm sure that most people who think about it, and consider the various abominations they've encountered in the past, would agree that one day someone will open up a box which says it's MF and find bits of choc-block, or wirenuts, or twisted and taped conductors inside.

To deliberately create the products which would facilitate that does seem to me to have been a Bad Idea.

Some valid points, but the same could be said about a J804, it only allows for 4 cables - so a standard 3-plate arrangement is fine. But if somebody has branched of the lighting circuit then you're gonna have 5+ cables. With a wagobox, not a problem. With a Hager, you've either gotta use two, as with your argument, somebody may well stuff a couple of connectors in there as well.

Similar complaints with the J501, it's one earth terminal short - yes it says each terminal is rated for 2x1.5mm² cable, but if you're going to have the exact right amount of each of the other terminals for a 3-plate, why scrimp on one earth terminal? Makes no sense to me.

I've also had occasion to join a 6mm² on a 32A MCB. J803 has a max cable capacity of 4mm², so wagobox it is.

I'm not saying either is perfect, and I use both on a day to day basis. I suspect a wagobox probably works out more expensive than a J503/4 but they're good for when you need the flexibilty that you don't get with Hager. Not every cable join is going to be the same.