Name of this plug/connection?

[adzyp]

Trying to find a replacement one of these but cant find anything anywhere. Has it got a specific name?

Its for plugged in kickboard strip led's in the kitchen. The driver has the 2 pin end that connects to this

 

[stem]

Looks like the same 2-pin 12v connector that is used with 12V garden lights maybe?

There's an example here. I've had several different brands of garden lights over the years and they do fit each other. Whether the kitchen lights are the same I don't know but for less than £5 might be worth a try.

 

[adzyp]

Looks like the same 2-pin 12v connector that is used with 12V garden lights maybe?

There's an example here. I've had several different brands of garden lights over the years and they do fit each other. Whether the kitchen lights are the same I don't know but for less than £5 might be worth a try.

Thanks, sorry its the actual plug part I need as pictured as suspect that is the problem/a quick and easy thing to test as a starting point

 

[Rodders53]

Test that 'wall wart' plug in AC-AC transformer with a multimeter on the 20V ac ~ range... If it measures around 12V (probably slightly higher) then that is probably not the issue.

Alternatively buy any 12V ac 500mA power supply transformer unit you like...
Cut off the supplied socket and plug on the lights and connect the wires with a small connector block or inline crimps or solder and insulating heatshrink sleeving. AC ~ means there's no worry about which wire joins to which.

NB they are not easy to find as wall wart transformers AC output... DC is more common.
https://cpc.farnell.com/ideal-power/77db-06-12/ac-ac-power-supply-12v-6va-uk/dp/PW05650 may be suitable?

 

[FrodoOne]

Trying to find a replacement one of these but cant find anything anywhere. Has it got a specific name?

Its for plugged in kickboard strip led's in the kitchen. The driver has the 2 pin end that connects to this

If your "kickboard strip LED's in the kitchen" accepts 12 V AC, it will have a "Built-In" Bridge rectifier which will not "care" if it supplied with AC or DC

Hence you can use any "Plug-In" 12 V AC or DC, 500 mA (or greater) supply, once you adapt any connections.

 

[jj4091]

Is this what you are looking for. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/27574998...Q0/bt+w3EH0hl7JGVT1fBRthBS+jq2qE1R/4g1zU7xNEr GTrXUbVKM%2BCaMBZMBA82QXI3%2BholTFM2sJwhYsj%2BdEhkcZuZlWQ%2BjwWjxtRRTi8d2q8boddE3w0%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7yT6du_Yw I don't know if the threads or diameter will suit your requirements though

 

[robinbanks]

You could make a plug for that just by putting a kink in some 2.5mm single core copper cable, surely.. skin about 5mm of insulation off the end of a bit of T+E and then shave the rest of the cable width down til you can jam it in..

 

[stem]

Thanks, sorry its the actual plug part I need

Ah OK. When you said you were looking for 'name of the plug connection' in your title and then showed a picture of a socket

I thought you wanted the plug to go in it......

.....not the power supply itself...

 

[jj4091]

Ah OK. When you said you were looking for 'name of the plug connection' in your title and then showed a picture of a socket

View attachment 335074

I thought you wanted the plug to go in it......


View attachment 335075

.....not the power supply itself...

That's what he said in post 3 wasn't it. I thought he meant a plug for the wall wart socket.

 

[adzyp]

If your "kickboard strip LED's in the kitchen" accepts 12 V AC, it will have a "Built-In" Bridge rectifier which will not "care" if it supplied with AC or DC

Hence you can use any "Plug-In" 12 V AC or DC, 500 mA (or greater) supply, once you adapt any connections.

It may be more of a junction box than a driver they are connected to, so not sure if using DC still works?

 

[adzyp]

Test that 'wall wart' plug in AC-AC transformer with a multimeter on the 20V ac ~ range... If it measures around 12V (probably slightly higher) then that is probably not the issue.

Alternatively buy any 12V ac 500mA power supply transformer unit you like...
Cut off the supplied socket and plug on the lights and connect the wires with a small connector block or inline crimps or solder and insulating heatshrink sleeving. AC ~ means there's no worry about which wire joins to which.

NB they are not easy to find as wall wart transformers AC output... DC is more common.
https://cpc.farnell.com/ideal-power/77db-06-12/ac-ac-power-supply-12v-6va-uk/dp/PW05650 may be suitable?

Just got round to testing this wall wart finally. Showing as 19v when testing with multimeter.

Is this an issue? Basically the LED's arent coming on so not sure if this would be the cause?

 

[jurassic sparkk]

If it's showing as 19v then it's probably not the issue. However sometimes these can fail to provide power under load.

Just because it's showing 19V at no load, doesn't mean it's 100% fine.

 

[adzyp]

If it's showing as 12v then it's probably not the issue. However sometimes these can fail to provide power under load.

Just because it's showing 12V at no load, doesn't mean it's 100% fine.

Its showing 19v, does that change anything?

Any idea what this connection on each of the LED's is?

 

[plugwash]

That looks very similar to the old "2 pin din" connector used for loudspeakers. Impossible to tell from a photo if the dimensions match though.

 

[FrodoOne]

Ever so slowly you are "leaking out" some of the information that you should have supplied in the first instance!

From that which you have written (so far) it is not clear that the "Power Supply" IS faulty", since you are reading Voltage

Reading the labels on the pictures (eventually) supplied, we now know (?) that you have "Hafele" Kickboard Strip LEDs - supplied from a 12 V AC (500 mA) TRANSFORMER via that which Hafele calls a "Master Junction Box" - rated at up-to 16 V AC, 500 mA.

(One might wonder if this "Master Junction Box" actually contains a "Bridge Rectifier" - given that it has a "rating"
AND
Polarized output connectors ! )

The "Strip LEDs" (how many?) may be connected via 2-Pin DIN connectors to the TEN sockets on this "Master Junction Box"

Just got round to testing this wall wart finally. Showing as 19v when testing with multimeter.

Is this an issue? Basically the LED's arent coming on so not sure if this would be the cause?

19 V (?) - on "No-Load" (?) - Where measured (?)
AC or DC (?)

You can plug one or more "Strip LEDs" into the "Master Junction Box" and measure the voltage supplied at one of the unused 2-Pin DIN sockets.

If you read 19V AC, the chances are that the supply is OK but there is "No-Load", indicating that the "Strip LED(s)" is/are Open Circuit. (Faulty)
If so, OBTAIN a (say) 150 Ohm/1 Watt resistor, insert its leads into a vacant 2-Pin DIN socket and check the voltage reading - on its leads.
(150 Ohms would represent about a 20% Load on the Transformer.)

You should then read around 12 V AC, if the supply is OK
- or 12V DC, if there IS a rectifier in the " Junction Box".