Needing guidance/tips on raising shed

[2020c]

I bought a shed 2 months ago for storage for tools and weights etc.. was supposed to install it on a base when first arrived but with being so busy, I couldn't get around to it. Now thou, I have built up just over 300mm with blocks on its flat around the perimeter of the base and will be installing the shed on top of this. I needed the extra height. I've left enough room for a tight render on the blocks face and will be painting on a waterproof clear sealer to stop any damp penetration. I have a dpc on top of the first cousre and will be putting in the floor insulation and screed.

My question is thou, when the top of the shed rests on top of the blocks, is there anything I can add to stop any rain penetrating here . I've left a slight overhang for render up to the underside of the bottom rail on the shed however I still think the rain will get through here.

2 options I can think of is one, to silicone all underside of the shed bottom rail.

The other option is to use the rubber seal thst we use in septic tanks which gets set between top and bottom sections.

Any thoughts on my two options? And would there be anything else which would be a better option than my two.

Pics are of the shed, and base.

 

[Mottie]

You’ll have more trouble with condensation and sweating with a tin shed than you will with damp penetration.

 

[2020c]

You’ll have more trouble with condensation and sweating with a tin shed than you will with damp penetration.

I already knew this, i will be getting it sprayed with spray on insulation.

 

[2020c]

I bought a shed 2 months ago for storage for tools and weights etc.. was supposed to install it on a base when first arrived but with being so busy, I couldn't get around to it. Now thou, I have built up just over 300mm with blocks on its flat around the perimeter of the base and will be installing the shed on top of this. I needed the extra height. I've left enough room for a tight render on the blocks face and will be painting on a waterproof clear sealer to stop any damp penetration. I have a dpc on top of the first cousre and will be putting in the floor insulation and screed.

My question is thou, when the top of the shed rests on top of the blocks, is there anything I can add to stop any rain penetrating here . I've left a slight overhang for render up to the underside of the bottom rail on the shed however I still think the rain will get through here.

2 options I can think of is one, to silicone all underside of the shed bottom rail.

The other option is to use the rubber seal thst we use in septic tanks which gets set between top and bottom sections.

Any thoughts on my two options? And would there be anything else which would be a better option than my two.

Pics are of the shed, and base.


View attachment 295660View attachment 295661

Just bumping this to see if any recommendations. Still haven't raised it untill I know whst I'm going to do.

 

[big-all]

general thoughts is the shed base a fraction smaller than the concrete base or a bit bigger??
the shed should ideally overhang the sides and drop below the top so zero water can reach the concrete surface other wise water can fall or be driven onto the concrete top

 

[Deluks]

I know someone who installed a similar shed on a concrete base, siliconed and screwed it down. No ingress, but if concrete is not level then water might get in. In which case you could grind out shallow slots wherever it is pooling to help water drain away.
Also, fit a vent.

 

[Wayners]

Polymer grab mastic. Stixall or ct1

 

[DIYspanner]

I've repaired two sheds with rotted floors so this post got my interest.

Both sheds I repaired had been sat on flags so the wood base soaked all the water over the years. My method was to sit the floor's wood chassis on 4 by 5 matrix of bricks with a plastic sheet between the bricks and the wood to act as damp course. I secured the brick with plugs and screws down through the wood. No matter how much rain, the shed base is above the rain water. I used engineering bricks by the way.

 

[2020c]

I've repaired two sheds with rotted floors so this post got my interest.

Both sheds I repaired had been sat on flags so the wood base soaked all the water over the years. My method was to sit the floor's wood chassis on 4 by 5 matrix of bricks with a plastic sheet between the bricks and the wood to act as damp course. I secured the brick with plugs and screws down through the wood. No matter how much rain, the shed base is above the rain water. I used engineering bricks by the way.

I was thinking of putting a wide damp course between the block and bottom of the shed. The fixings will Pierce through the damp course but was then thinking of covering with ct1 or similar polymer sealent. I will also have the shed over hanging the blocks by 10mm all around a d will plaster up to it with sand and cement

 

[big-all]

dont worry about piercing the dpm as its elevated its belt and braces as in a secondary layer where any moisture finding its way up and through will be easilly lost through evaporation
in other words you have removed 90% off the problem by pure elevation then another say 7% by the dpm so only the possible 3% off moisture can get through when perhaps at least 20-30% over long periods need to transfer to cause problems

 

[DIYspanner]

ref: wide damp course between the block and bottom of the shed

If that means a damp course sheet for the shed to sit on, could water seep in above the damp course and will your installation allow the water to drain back out?

 

[2020c]

ref: wide damp course between the block and bottom of the shed

If that means a damp course sheet for the shed to sit on, could water seep in above the damp course and will your installation allow the water to drain back out?

I was thinking the dpc tucked up behind the bottom of the steel shed. I'm even going to spray the inside of shed in spray foam insulation, when tucking the dpc up behind it, it'll stick to the spray foam. This way if any rain trys to travel in, it can travel in and up.

In theory this sounds ok. In practice, we'll see