Oven Connection

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17 Mar 2010
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Fife
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United Kingdom
I am getting a John Lewis 3.5KW Pyrolytic single oven JLBIOS613. There is a dedicated 6mm cooker circuit with a 32amp RCB. Also 20 amp cooker switch. At the moment behind the existing single oven there is a double 13amp socket wired to the cooker circuit and supplying the present oven and the gas hob. Is it OK to connect a cooker connection unit for the new oven which is rated an 20amp and connect the existing double socket as a spur for the hob? What size cable should I use to connect the new oven to the cooker connection unit?
 
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I assume you mean 32A RCBO?
The cooker according to John Lewis spec, requires 16A.
So the flex required for the cooker would by at least 1.5mm (which will be bang on your current rating at 16A) or 2.5mm (which will be rated at 25A) with the maximum load being no more than 16A either of these flexes would be okay, if wanted to go belt and braces you could consider 4.00mm flex (rated at 35A)
You need to use a heat resistant flex such as "Buytl Heat Resistant"
With regards to the set up for the connection behind the cooker a dual 45A cooker outlet could be used and the double socket done away with.
Or options are 45A outlet plate for cooker and socket (or a fused connection unit) for gas ignition.
You will find most outlet plates are rated at 45A and that is fine!
Assuming the sockets are sunk in to the wall. with a little extra work, you could go down the route of removing the existing back box for a dual accessory box, then installing these
45A outlet plate
FCU
 
Great advice. I am OK with the socket options and appreciate the advice on cable size as I was finding that harder to pin down. Probably go for the latter option of sockets as at seem a neater option. Many thanks. :)
 
The cooker will need to be hardwired to an outlet as previously mentioned.
The gas ignition is fine via plug and socket the ignition will only require a small current for limited period, so down fusing the plug from 13A to 3A would be sufficient.
Sometimes though depending where the location of the socket plate is and the appliance design, the plug can prevent the appliance (cooker/oven) from being pushed back in to the housing, that is why often a flex plate or FCU would be desired
The flex ratings of 1.5mm and 2.5mm is lower than the RCBO rating which is not ideal, but the draw of the cooker "16A" does not exceed this, so I would not consider it unsafe. But I would suggest that maybe going for 4.00 flex or even down fusing the RCBO to 16A could be an option, but the cost of RCBOs could be quite tastier (and need to be type tested for the model of board, so you need to use the same make), than the cost of a 4 foot length of 4.00 buytl.
But they the are options
 
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Like the sound of the 4mm but would probably go for this anyway as I tend to be "belt and braces" and keeps the circuit compatible. Thanks.
 

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