Painting Pine Louvre Doors White

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I am going to be painting 12 pine louvre cupboard doors, some previously stained "aged pine" orange with spirit based Ronseal many years ago, others are new naked timber. SWMBO says that they will all look better white. Any advice please on making a good job?

I would prefer to use water based paint (despite the quick drying lack of rework time). The new timber needs priming, but will I have problems covering the old wood stain? Special products needed? Slats first? Roller or brush?

Sure that I will be an expert by the end!!
 
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This is one of the few occasions that may justify a cheap diy sprayer, you'll need to prime the stained ones with zinsser 123.
Tip i learned years ago is to tap a block of timber wider than the doors with a couple of large nails into the top and bottom edges of the doors (not the rail, the bits that face the ceiling and floor). Get a couple of carpenters horses or similar, rest the doors on the blocks, spray, with the help of SWMBO flip and do the other side, you can also neatly stack them one on top of the other to dry.
 
I've been doing a load of louvre doors this week. They were all stained and varnished, gave them a coat of Zinsser B.I.N. and two coats of Crown trade satinwood using worn in inch and half Hamilton perfections, they came up great. If your painting them in situ always coat the backs of the doors first to avoid fat edges and runs on the face of the slats.
 
Thanks guys. I have heard how great Zinsser is but feel a bit confused by their product choices. The doors are stained, the wipe on stuff from years ago so very stable, but not varnished. Do I need BIN, 1-2-3 or would (the cheaper) Cover-Stain do the job?
 
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OK, here's the outcome (for anyone with a similar project).

Opted for Zinsser 123 as primer sealer for the stained doors (going to use the same on the raw timber). First coat seemed to reactivate the 15 year old wood stain in a few places, much to my surprize got some yellowish streaks through. Maybe I should have gone with the smelly shellac of Zinsser BIN? Had to lay off really gently or I took of all I had put on. Applied total of 3 coats to get full coverage (I believe in doing all the "covering" with undercoat rather than hope the top coat will fix it). Used 25mm synthetic brush plus a no.1 artists paint brush to poke into the corners, slow but effective. Zinsser sticks to brushes and skin really well, vigorous washing needed, but nice to paint with and hopefully stuck and covered better than basic undercoat would have done.

Final finish coat I went for one coat of Leyland Trade acrylic eggshell. Never used eggshell before - always behind the fashion! This went on easily too (unlike the quick drying thixotropic Leyland Trade acrylic gloss that I had previously battled with on some plain room doors, that was the paint from Hell for larger surfaces). Can said to use 2 coats but one was sufficient over all that Zinsser. What nice paint, just love that eggshell! Doors now rehung and look great.

Will be giving the extra new louvre doors the same treatment when they arrive. Think I could be an eggshell convert!
 

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