Painting stonework

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Hi,
I am painting a 1906 house with stone sills and lintels.
I was advised by a survey to strip the 'normal' paint from the stone and use weathershiled. This I did. I went to a good paint supplier, and bought Dulux trade weathershild smooth.
After painting some of the stone with the first coat, I checked if it is breathable (A bit late I know!) and find it isn't.
Do I strip it, find some breathable paint or carry on with this?
Cheers, Camerart.
 
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If the paint is breathable, then it's really like having no paint. Why do you need it to breath? Paint is there to shield and protect whatever is shielded.
 
If the paint is breathable, then it's really like having no paint. Why do you need it to breath? Paint is there to shield and protect whatever is shielded.
Hi D,
I've come here to ask the expets, but as far as I understand, with a brick and stone house all of the surface should be breathable, including the stone work.
Having said that the stonework has had a lifetime of 'normal' paint including leady stuff, so I assime it maybe will never breath again.
If this is the case my logic is the none breathable stuff is pobably ok. I'm just checking before I carry on.
C
 
I am of the view that if it ain't broken, don't fix it. Breathability is usually useful to allow moisture escape. If moisture is prevented from entering, then there is no need to prevent its escape.
 
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I am of the view that if it ain't broken, don't fix it. Breathability is usually useful to allow moisture escape. If moisture is prevented from entering, then there is no need to prevent its escape.
Hi D,
We'll is was broken, as paint was being 'blown' off, and some of the stone had bee frozen off too.

The surveyer, said it was incorrect paint, which started this.

I've used the none porous weathershild paint, and 3/4 done now, so no turning back.
Thanks C.
 
Hi D,
We'll is was broken, as paint was being 'blown' off, and some of the stone had bee frozen off too.

The surveyer, said it was incorrect paint, which started this.

I've used the none porous weathershild paint, and 3/4 done now, so no turning back.
Thanks C.

When you say that you used DT Weathershield, do you mean that you used the waterbased masonry paint.

As a decorator, I offer both oil based DT Weathershield and water based DTW masonry paint on stone sills. The masonry version is the (significantly) cheaper option.

Taking a bay window as an example, to get the sills up to a high standard where DTW gloss will be acceptable may take 2
days of applying and sanding 2K filler. Their masonry paint, you can use something like Toupret Touprelith F filler, which will be much easier to sand but will be slightly granular in finish. Half a day for a reasonable finish (but lower quality finish).

I have to agree with @DiyNutJob that a breathable paint is not required and may be bad move. I suspect that they may have been cracks (or failed mortar) which allowed water ingress.
 
When you say that you used DT Weathershield, do you mean that you used the waterbased masonry paint.

As a decorator, I offer both oil based DT Weathershield and water based DTW masonry paint on stone sills. The masonry version is the (significantly) cheaper option.

Taking a bay window as an example, to get the sills up to a high standard where DTW gloss will be acceptable may take 2
days of applying and sanding 2K filler. Their masonry paint, you can use something like Toupret Touprelith F filler, which will be much easier to sand but will be slightly granular in finish. Half a day for a reasonable finish (but lower quality finish).

I have to agree with @DiyNutJob that a breathable paint is not required and may be bad move. I suspect that they may have been cracks (or failed mortar) which allowed water ingress.
Hi O,
I have scaffolding up for roof repairs, which may go anytime, so I had to get on with the painting.
I used Water based masonary paint, (I suppose the cheap stuff) Some of the sills are cracked in two, which I filled with silicon, then painted 3 coats.
Almost finished,
thanks.
C
 

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