Power shower pressure

Philthefrog.
Which port on the Warix flange is connected to the pump ?
 
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Right chums.

It could be I have the answer to all of this. Just looked at the Salamander pump website it appears that I have got the outlets of the Warix back to front. Unlike the Surrey flange the hot water domestic and vent is taken from the side vent and not from the top. :oops: I knew I should have bought a Surrey with a fringe on top.

Back to basics then for me. It was simond that started the alarm bells ringing regarding a manual bleed at the top of the pipe run - so thanks for your suggestions and interest in the problem.

Next time for me - RTFM - which I didn't have.

:oops: :oops:
 
Nige F said:
...probably due to compression fittings not having a smear of compound round the olive
Call me stubborn, and I know this is a popular theory, but I still struggle to believe that this ever actually happens. :confused:
 
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PhiltheFrog said:
I should have bought a Surrey
That would be a downgrade. To upgrade, get an Essex.

And I don't mean one of these:

images


or one of these:

08_main.jpg
 
OK chums - just an update - all replumbed and vented and correct outputs of the Warix flange going to the right places. Took a while to bleed the air out but having left it for over half an hour it fired up first time - which is a first.

New thermostat in place too - but I'm not happy with the original wiring as it doesn't seem to match the instructions - oh well same model as before so we'll see how that pans out.

Thanks to all of you that got your thinking caps on - you got me there. :D
 
Dear Phil the Frog,
can you possibly help me? I am almost at tears with my shower. It is a 3/4" dual control thermostatic shower valve. Has been running ok, but recently sounds much the same as your problem, with continuous air locks. I need to run the bath taps sink taps and sometimes the pump fires up.Trying to sort it out for approx 6hrs today, and now abosolutely no water at all. latest problem when working , if I try to cool water down on thermostat, I loose all hot water. if I try to correct most of the power goes, can you help please?.....
 
Barry

Wow! I don't know quite what to say - I'm probably the wrong man to ask but here goes. My problem was that the flange I bought to replace the hot water outlet on the hot water cylinder had reversed outlets i.e. the hot water to the pump was from the top and to the main house system was from the side - and not the other way around - as I had expected. It meant that the air bubbles that form in the hot water cylinder were collecting in the pump pipework rather than being vented out and creating an air-lock.

To have the pump come on when you turn your ordinary taps on seems to me that somewhere along the way the outlets have been switched - but you say that it had been all OK until recently. Have you had any plumbing work done recently?

You may need to post your question elsewhere in the forum - one of the other guys who helped me out might see your problem and have an idea. It might be worthwhile having a read through some of the topics too - lots of questions were being asked elsewhere about pumped systems.

Whatever you do don't give up - my problem was finally sorted after 5 weekends of undoing and redoing pipework and changing valves and undoing the shower. Just a chance comment by one of the guys set my alarm bells ringing and the problem was sorted in a couple of hours.

I'll have a think on your problem and get back to you.
 

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