Recommended screws for skew-nailing deck boards?

[MJN]

I am currently planning the construction of a deck and have opted to use Simpson DBT1Z 'hidden' deck board ties to affix the boards.

As you can see from the following graphic these require nailing in to the edge of a board (for which galvanised nails are provided) and then butting up and under the previously affixed board, the latter requiring its free edge skew-nailing into position:

I can't help but feel that using screws instead of nails might be worthwhile for the skew-nailing to at least give me the option of being able to pull the boards up at a later date. Why I'd want to do this I don't know, but if one thing's for certain a reason would present itself if I was to irreversibly fasten the boards down!

So, I'm wondering if anyone can make a recommendation as to what screw size/type to use? I am mindful of the outdoor aspect, wanting to minimise splitting (the boards are 33mm thick by the way), ease of installation (pilot hole required?), not wanting the head to be (too) proud and visible through the 3mm gap etc.

The range on offer at the likes of Screwfix is bewildering to be honest and whilst I've been using their Goldscrews for years for indoor projects I'm wondering if there's something more suitable for this particular job.

Mathew

 

[masona]

I can't understand how the plate will slide under the next decking that's already fixed down

 

[rjm2k]

The link you posted says they are discontinued, perhaps there's a reason for that?

 

[masona]

I think the problem with your fixings is when the decking boards expanding loosen the nails therefore rain soaking into the boards via the nails, if it's a metal brackets then I can't help wondering corrosion problem etc

However, I would use something like this, this there's no screws or nails in the decking boards therefore allowing expanding freely although there's nothing wrong what you're doing, I'm just thinking ahead

Will need to hire or buy a biscuit joiner http://www.strongtie.co.uk/pdf/S-EBTY-2013.pdf

Make sure the cut out are treated

 

[MJN]

The plate is not slid between the board and the joist, but rather it is placed within 50mm to one side.

The point about being discontinued is something that crossed my mind too. I did wonder if perhaps the security of the fixing might reduce over time, but then the replacement product doesn't seem any better in that regard - if anything I imagine it'd be worse from the off given the absence of a positive lock on the deck board. Worse still, the fitting instructions for the new product advocates the use of adhesive on the underside of the boards which I think hints at the inherent problems with the fixing.

Since my original post I am toying with just conventional screwing from the top. If I choose the screw carefully I think the aesthetics need not suffer and it'll be a damn sight easier to lay (and pull up if the need arises).

I mustn't forget that this is an outside structure and whilst general aesthetics is important it's not like it's a polished oak floor in the entrace hall to a country manor...

 

[MJN]

Apologies Masona, we must've posted at the same time.

I have looked at the EB-TY replacement product but I've got my doubts given the requirement to glue the boards down.

Looking at all the hidden fasteners on the market, and there are a whole variety in the US where decks are big business, they all seem to have their downsides and so I'm wondering if I should stick to screws.

I am mindful that hidden fasteners could be something of a 'solution looking for a problem' and their cost certainly hints at that also as for what they are they're relative expensive.

 

[masona]

Might be easier to do this instead, could be cheaper depending how many fixings

http://www.howarthonline.co.uk/category/48-camo-hidden-deck-fastening-system

Not sure if it's adjustable for the widths of the decking boards

 

[MJN]

Yeah I did consider the Camo system and if I was fitting decks professionaly I probably would. However, for a one-off I'm wondering if the £60 cost of the jig (excluding screws which would be the same amount again) can be justified...?

I suppose I could possibly sell it on eBay afterwards to recoup some of the cost...

The other issue is that, just to make the job even more difficult than it could otherwise be, I shall be fitting the boards diagonally to the joists so the Camo jig wouldn't work too well. However, Kregg do a similar jig-based system which also has angled guide holes for this fixing style.