Replaced Danfoss FP715 with CP715 now no hot water.

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Thanks for all the help people have given me help on here, its appreciated. I tested the three port using these instructions:-
  1. Shut off the power supply to your central heating system. Don’t simply turn things off at the programmer, as the valve will still carry live current and the test won’t be effective. With no electricity to the valve, it should return to its default, spring-loaded position, which is hot water only.
  2. Move the lever on the side of the valve without locking it in the manual override slot. You should feel resistance from the spring as you do this.
  3. Let go of the lever. It should return to its original position.
  4. If you don’t feel any resistance from the lever when you push it over, or if it doesn’t return to the default position when you let it go, the valve has probably jammed

I didn't feel any resistance so I believe its seized in CH position. Also I noticed it feels very warm to touch is that normal I wonder?

So for a long term fix, I need to get a plumber in to replace this part and the system would have to be drained down? Would that be a couple of hours labour + part?
 

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Manually latch the valve into its mid position ,but central heating would also need to be on to fire up the boiler ,that would give you hot water. Only a short term solution though. Don't you have an immersion heater in cylinder as back up ?
Did the system originally work ok ,before programmer went faulty ?
The system was working before the programmer become faulty however we hadn't used the boiler or a while. Good idea with immersion heater need to check that out, thanks.
 
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the synchron motor has seized, I told you this already, either change the motor or change the actuator head, the actuator head that you have can be changed without draining down, I personally would just change the motor but up to you
 
If the valve is over say 4/5 years old, it might be prudent to change out the whole lot, it will only require a partial drain down, the cost of buying the complete valve may not be much greater than just buying the actuator only, labour costs will be a bit higher but it will be a once off.
You could buy the whole valve and just change the actuator, OK if doing yourself but not cost effective if its not just the actuator.
 
If the valve is over say 4/5 years old, it might be prudent to change out the whole lot, it will only require a partial drain down, the cost of buying the complete valve may not be much greater than just buying the actuator only, labour costs will be a bit higher but it will be a once off.
You could buy the whole valve and just change the actuator, OK if doing yourself but not cost effective if its not just the actuator.
Yes I will do that, the valve must be 15 years + old. Thanks for all your help.
 

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