Replacing Kitchen Wal Units

[ub7rm]

I about to replace my kitchen and was wondering if it would be possible to reuse the existing wall hangers for my new units? I am replacing like for like size wise with B&Q units - I don't know who made the existing units but I suspect that they are wickes as the previous owner had a bit of a wickes fetish given the amount of wickes stuff kicking about the place.

Are the hanger brackets pretty standard or do they vary by manufacturer?

Any comments gratefully received.

 

[kevin_robson]

I just installed a wickes kitchen and noticed that screwfix sell the same wall hanging brackets that were supplied with the wall units.

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?cId=A326934&ts=45190&id=91611

Dunno if this helps you any.

 

[ub7rm]

OK - Thanks for that.

In the event that I have to install the new hangers, I'm thinking of using some of those readydriva's from Screw fix to attach the brackets to my lath and plaster wall - is this a good idea? Anyone have any experience with these for kitchen cabinets?

Any tips or experience welcome.

thanks again

 

[Scrit]

Hanging brackets are much of a muchness, but they cost pennies, so I don't see it as a problem.

These are 27p a pop here

In the event that I have to install the new hangers, I'm thinking of using some of those readydriva's from Screw fix to attach the brackets to my lath and plaster wall - is this a good idea?

No it's not. The load on a kitchen cabinet can vary enormously and be very high indeed when a child or adult climbs up on the worktop for any reason. Doesn't happen? Then you haven't mey some of the kids or light-bulb changing adults I have...... An upper cabinet loaded with canned goods or crockery can weigh as much as 45 to 55kg, so the idea of suspending a cabinet on four Redidrivas screwed into a layer of plasterboard gives me the creeps. When I have to do that sort of thing I generally try to spread the load onto one of these:

a steel hanging rail (this one from Woodfit) which allows you to suspend the load using more Redidrivas and hopefully at least some screws going through the plasterboard and into wooden studs. You do have to notch-out the backs of the cabinets like this:

but surely that's better than having to explain to her why mum's best Spode is now sitting in a heap of 10,000 shards on the worktop and floor because the cabinet fell off the wall. I have seen this, I've even had it happen to me (in a house we bought, not a kitchen I'd installed I hasten to add) - and it isn't pretty

Scrit

 

[ub7rm]

Excellent Scrit, that rail is a genius idea. I wasn't trying to be penny pinching, i was just trying to be lazy by not having to hang new hangers since I'm replacing like for like sizewise and my wall is lath and plaster - I believe most plasterboard fixings are not suitable for lath and plaster.

With that rail I can fix it to the studs and a few redidrivas along the wall for good measure. What sort of height cut out do you use on the back of the unit and whats the best way about doing it? Jigsaw before assembling the carcass?

Many thanks for that - I can sleep easy now I know how to tackle that one!

 

[Scrit]

With that rail I can fix it to the studs and a few redidrivas along the wall for good measure. What sort of height cut out do you use on the back of the unit and whats the best way about doing it? Jigsaw before assembling the carcass?

Certainly a jigsaw before or after it doesn't matter. Height about width of rail plus 20mm or so. Trial and error on the first one will tell you! (so maybe assemble then cut). I'd also suggest using a few toggle fasteners one any "loose ends"

Scrit