Retro fitting loft insulation when boarded

[NickB_99]

Hi

Moved house last year and the loft was 2/3rds boarded. Down one end loft insulation was rolled over the top of the loft boards. Now getting a bit straighter up there I'd like to get this insulation below the boards if possible.
There's about 6" of space under there and the old insulation only about 1" thick.

IMG_3458

• NickB_99
• 12 Mar 2017

Unfortunately the loft boards are tongue and groove and have been nailed down with nails with small heads.

Any tips/tricks how to get them up with minimum damage?
Tried knocking them from underneath (where I can get under), to loosen nails enough to then pull them with a claw hammer. Alas it's difficult to get much clearance underneath to swing hammer back.

 

[cjard]

How good are your eyes? If you can see the nail heads, buy a punch that is big enough to cover the head (try for a punch that is concave so it cups the head) and use it to drive the nails right the way through the boards and into the joists

Alternatively dewalt do a fantastic claw bar, http://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-claw-bar-10/4777c , you put the pointy end on the wood near the nail head and hammer it into the wood on a shallow angle. It's really good at digging into the wood, you only need to do it a little, and you'll have the nails out in no time. The little scallops of missing floorboard will never be noticed

If you're struggling with the tongue and grove aspect, use a circular saw set to the depth of the board thickness and run it along the short edge. This way you can grab the long edge and lift a board up. When refitting boards, stagger the joints(an error in the original laying) and either arrange for the short edges to be landing on a joist, or screw a flap of wood to the underside (of the laid board, then lay a board on it) so it bridges the cut gap. Both these techniques remove the need for a short edge TnG to exist so it doesn't matter about cutting it.

If you ever want to use the space as e.g. kids playroom, you'll be covering the floor with cheap laminate or carpet anyway so minor damage is inconsequential. When relaying the boards, use screws instead as they're less likely to result in squeaks. If the room will have heavy use it may be worth laying something like strips of pvc plastic (damp proof course for example) on the joists, again to reduce future squeaking

 

[NickB_99]

Thanks cjard. Some really good advice there.
I had no idea about that dewalt bar, a little damage to the surface would be acceptable.
The T&G is on the long edge, short edge is clean cut, but same principles could apply.
Was planning to replace with screws, hadn't thought of the damp proof course, but I have some in the garage so can give that a go when replacing.