Shed on existing concrete yard

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Hi,

I am building a shed on an existing concrete yard. The concrete has a slope for drainage and digging it out to lay a new concrete base isn't an option, since it's a rented house.

Here is the base and the yard where it's going:

zDVFyLD.jpg


I've bought some bricks and my idea was to place 15 bricks to support both ends and the middle of each of the five 'skids', with mortar underneath to level them and hold them down. Is this a reasonable way to do it?

I've never done any brickwork before - what is a good way of making sure it ends up level when it's done? I was thinking of getting a long length of 2x4 and placing my spirit level on it, put it on each row of bricks and use it to get them all level in both directions. Will it work?

Cheers :)
 
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why cant you kist lay it on the floor?

id use class b bricks an lay a thin bed on to of it an bed in a DPC

Anyway back to the brick work best way will be to mark out the base on the floor with mark out all round it soo you got the footprint of it an the center of the runners.
use a normal 4ft level...
lay the first run at the end of the shed you can lay out off with a level or use a string line depends on how good you are.
now your first course is in an layed to the live remember that the face of the brickwork on the front and back sits on the line an the runners the brick works sits on the center of the brickwork.


so first line layed use your level off the end/corner the set you next line then lay that one an so on till you finish
 
You need 5 lines of bricks or blocks to support your "joists". Put some chalk marks around the outer bricks with an arrow for their centres (back and front). Use a batten and a spirit level work out what sort of slope you are going to have to compensate for. There is no problem leaving gaps in the run of the bricks up to ,say 3", to get an whole number of bricks in the line. Mix up your mortar, remove one brick, splodge down a lump, and set the brick on it, level it up (compensate for the slope ar this stage. When all done, leave for three days. Then put an even bed of 1/2" of mortar on all bricks AND a DPC (bits of thick plastic bag will do. Get a mate to help you put the base down evenly. Tap into place. Leave for a couple of days. Really the bricks should be 9" high or you will get splash back from the rain dripping of the sides, splashing up underneath the floor. If you run your bricks all the way around there will be no ventilation. For a more permanent workshop it should have underfloor insulation.
Frank
 

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