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Single phase overload protection in a hot box ideas?

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Hi all,

I'm running a borehole pump in a 20-year-old well, primarily used for irrigation during the warmer months (not livestock). Over the past year, we've drawn around 1000 m³ through the system at about 16 GPM (60 LPM). The pump is a 230 V, 6A absorption-type, drawing around 1242 W at a 0.9 power factor, so roughly 1 kW of mechanical power delivered. The well has never run dry in two decades, and the surrounding geology is sandy yellow subsoil (formerly extracted as building sand).

Issue:​


The original 7A thermal overload breaker began tripping recently, so I replaced it with an 8A unit, which also now trips—but under specific conditions:
  • If the pump is restarted too quickly (e.g. after only a minute of downtime), the overload trips—even at night when ambient temperatures are around 20 °C / 68 °F.
  • During daytime operation, after ~1 hour of continuous running, it trips again—presumably due to elevated enclosure temperatures (likely 40 °C / 105 °F or higher).
Setup Details:

  • The control equipment is mounted outdoors in a metal IP67-rated enclosure, in direct sun. The box contains:
    • 2x liquid level relays (one always active)
    • Contactor
    • Isolator
    • Motor control unit (capacitor + thermal overload relay)
  • The enclosure is fully sealed (no ventilation, to maintain IP67 rating).
  • Power is supplied via armoured cable connected to a plug socket, allowing me to use a plug-in power meter (limited sample rate).
  • Recorded power draw:
    • Startup: ~1260 W
    • Normal operation: ~1190–1242 W
    • Control gear accounts for ~7 W of this.
All consumption data is logged to a computer system for other monitoring tasks.

Background:​


When the new pump was installed, it delivered twice the flow rate of the old unit and initially drew a large quantity of sand, which likely caused internal wear (scoring, possible bearing degradation). I now clean the Netafim 2" filter monthly or every 300 m³, and sand ingress is now minimal.

My Assessment:
  • The pump likely suffered accelerated wear early on, so it may be working slightly harder, but not excessively—based on current power draw.
  • The thermal overload trips are most likely caused by high enclosure temperatures, especially considering the overload is located inside a sealed, sunlit box.
  • The current protection is a basic thermal relay, not compensating for ambient heat.

Options I'm Considering:​


I’m evaluating the Schneider LS9D09 electronic thermal overload unit, along with an appropriate contactor. That route involves time and cost—around half the price of a replacement pump, plus rewiring.




My Question:​


Before I go down that road—surely I’m not the first to run into this? Are there established best practices for protecting borehole pumps in outdoor (hot, sealed) installations? Any advice on more robust overload protection, thermal compensation, or cooling strategies that still preserve IP67 would be appreciated.
 
I know it will be a lot of messing about but the existing thermal overload can be fitted in a different (cooler) location to the control gear, such as near the origin of the circuit
 
Are you sure about that Schneider part number?
It's not available on the Schneider site so I suspect you got the digits wrong (which happens a lot, which is why I have several we cannot use at work lol).

Have a look at the LRD14L, 7-10A and fits into the contactor LC1D09U7.
 
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Are you sure about that Schneider part number?
It's not available on the Schneider site so I suspect you got the digits wrong (which happens a lot, which is why I have several we cannot use at work lol).

Have a look at the LRD14L, 7-10A and fits into the contactor LC1D09U7.
LR9 series - electrical overload protection as opposed to thermal based units. Hence the cost. Probably the D08 would be the one. 8A max with a C20 starting curve and automatic reset if it even ever trips.

 
Often, pumps rely on low load for start up, see this a lot with refrigeration, and thermostats often have a delay built in, so the motor can't try to restart while there is still pressure on the outlet.

I worked with submersible pumps, and if they draw air, they can overheat, it relies on the water to cool them. If they have not been trimmed in, or the head is too much, they can overheat as not enough water goes through the pump to cool it. The motor was in essence water cooled.
 
If the pump is restarted too quickly (e.g. after only a minute of downtime), the overload trips—even at night when ambient temperatures are around 20 °C / 68 °F.

As per Eric's suggestion, delay the restart, so the loading has time to dissipate.

During daytime operation, after ~1 hour of continuous running, it trips again—presumably due to elevated enclosure temperatures (likely 40 °C / 105 °F or higher).

Why so hot? If it's due to the hot sun, you could add the likes of a Stevenson Screen. Does it really need to be IP67? Could a vent and a small fan be added in the base?
 
I am going to add some of these and also I did not know that a thermal LRD16 is temperature compensated up to 60° which should be enough. So that plan is to replace the existing contactor with a LC1D18U7 and plug the LRD16 into it. You can't set the trip curve on the LRD16 unlike the electronic versions but you get what you pay for I guess.
 
I take it this is in a metal control panel enclosure, what colour is it? Painting a ligher/reflective colour can help.
 
As per Eric's suggestion, delay the restart, so the loading has time to dissipate.



Why so hot? If it's due to the hot sun, you could add the likes of a Stevenson Screen. Does it really need to be IP67? Could a vent and a small fan be added in the base?
Yep, good idea - I've just coded a three minute delay on the interlock relay so it can't restart for three mins. Which is what the mrf states 20 starts per hour at equal intervals. So when the power draw goes below 600w (it's just a threshold trigger, so going through it works) the normally closed relay opens and prevents the liquid level relays from powering the contactor.
 
I know it will be a lot of messing about but the existing thermal overload can be fitted in a different (cooler) location to the control gear, such as near the origin of the circuit
Yep That's not a bad plan, it's only a hole a gland and some HR07N cable to a cooler location which would be directly behind the tank itself which perfectly blocks the sunshine !
 
Another option may be to use a variable speed drive and start it slowly, I don't know if your pump can handkle that though.
 
Yep That's not a bad plan, it's only a hole a gland and some HR07N cable to a cooler location which would be directly behind the tank itself which perfectly blocks the sunshine !
Could you resite the whole panel there?
 
Could you resite the whole panel there?
The frustrating thing is, I moved the whole panel from there because access was basically impossible. I mean really — most of the old panel had to be cut out just to remove it. The issue is that the 6000L water tank was installed after the borehole had been dug and the control panel set up, and it ended up right in front of a low wall with the panel on it. So the tank was placed without much thought for the borehole controls.


Moving the tank would’ve meant building a new base and messing up the sightlines, which we didn’t want. So like so many things, it’s a compromise. The thing is, we need access to the electronics more often than you might expect — for all sorts of reasons.


I just checked, and it’s actually not that hot in the box. It’s warm, sure, but not uncomfortable to touch.


For now, I think the immediate plan should be to relocate the thermal overload switch outside the box. I’ve got everything I need to do that right here without the ordering, waiting and costs.

I also just coded the ESP32 running the relay to report its temperature. It’s mounted inside a small project box within the same enclosure — mainly to stop the bare board flapping around inside a metal box, even though it’s only running at 5V DC.


Here’s a snippet from the log:

[15:12:07][D][sensor:098]: 'Internal Temperature': Sending state 56.2 °C

So it’s reading 56.2°C in there right now - (shows how [un]reliable the human sensor is, my hand).

I need to read up on the curves and derating for that cut out switch.
 
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