single to double socket conversion - part needed

[rich164h]

Hi,
I want to convert a single socket to a double without having to chisel out a double socket sized hole in the wall. I've seen a bunch of converters that can do this however my problem is that immediately to the right of the single socket is a pipe, so fitting one of these converters centrally over the existing single hole isn't going to work.

Is it possible to get one of these converters so that it allows the single hole to sit behind either the left or the right of the converter (in my case the right hand side)?

I'm not fussed about this standing proud of the wall as it's in a position that's out of sight, but moving the pipe isn't an option. As there's another pipe about a foot to the left I don't want to risk damaging the plaster work as repairing it will be a nightmare (hence why I don't want to chisel out a double hole).

Thanks

Rich

ps. pic below:


single_double_socket_convert by Richardhilton77, on Flickr

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I have never come across a handed one
But there could be a way around this without moving pipe work or sinking a double box in to wall and restriction of any damage.
Normally the single-double convert kits profile will be proud of wall.
So what I would do is:
*remove single socket front
*install a double gang surface mounted back over top of the single that is sunk in to wall. (If you use a low profile 25mm box should not look much different to a converter kit)
*bring your cables through the back of that, extend cables if need be using correctly rated connectors.
*Then connect up your double gang socket.

NB.
Now depending on the material the wall is made of, if it is plasterboard rather than plaster you could just install a double dry-lining box.

 

[Chri5]

Or box the pipes in with baton and a p/board face and then you can put in a dry line double b/box. Subject to the existing cables being long enough.

 

[rich164h]

Thanks for that. A standard wall mounted box! the simple and obvious answer!! I genuinely hadn't considered that. Will I be able to use it straight away or will I need to fill in the single socket to provide mounting support to the wall mounted box?

The wall is a very thin skim of plaster onto ~5mm of mortar (type stuff) that's on top of very hard red brick. Having chiseled out 4 double sockets from scratch already and seeing how hard it is and how much plaster gets damaged each time I'm keen to minimize how often I do it. And with the pipe in the way as well making the repairs neat would be near impossible for me I'd say.

 

[rich164h]

Or box the pipes in with baton and a p/board face and then you can put in a dry line double b/box. Subject to the existing cables being long enough.

That's certainly another thought, although I doubt the cables would be long enough so would need to be extended somehow. I'd also have to think about how to make the top neat where it would meet the boiler.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Thanks for that. A standard wall mounted box! the simple and obvious answer!! I genuinely hadn't considered that. Will I be able to use it straight away or will I need to fill in the single socket to provide mounting support to the wall mounted box?

It will depend on the where the mounting holes are placed on the surface box and how much room you have on the right towards the pipe.
It is sensible to have some separation between socket and pipe work, but you may have to fill part of the original back box in or secure a bit of timber in it to fix to.
But you could also be restricted by where the cables enter the original back box, if the cables enter from the right hand side, there could be a possibility of mechanical damage caused by fixings, so be careful of that.
Remember if joints are made in the cable, they need to be accessible and not buried in wall.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If you can't get a surface box to sit over the top you could put it directly above or below, and replace the existing socket with a blanking plate.

Cables can be extended, if necessary, with joints in the existing back box, and a shallow chase made in the wall (stitch drill first, and the chiselling will be easy) to take the cable into the new surface box. If positioned so that it's hard up against the edge of the blanking plate you won't have to do any making good.

 

[RMS]

If you do fit a surface box over the top of the existing metal back box then you may have to extend the existing cables which is fine but remember to earth the back box to the cpc terminal within the new socket.