SMEG E50242 repeats cycle 2 mins before end and .....

[tonydee1965]

Is not heating the water.

Can anyone please advise on issue on how to do a possible reset?

Thanks

Tony

 

[zipper]

A reset normally doesn't help with a no-heat fault. Before trying any reset run a cycle & note the sequence of LED's when the malfunction occurs (read left to right).
Reset: Open the door, switch off using the on/off button. Switch on, don't wait for any lights to appear. Immediately press the program button 4 times within 3 seconds. This should illuminate the two end lights. Press the program button once & the first light should go out. Switch off & wait 20 secs, switch on, then off again. Finally switch on and select a new program.

 

[tonydee1965]

...the only light that appears is that for the cycle. I will try again though to confirm.
Error cycle:
I set a Program (cycle) to last for 43mins. and as it counts down, when it gets to 2 mins, it then for some reason jumps to 10 mins and counts down. This is repeated continuously so the machine does not in fact stop.
When I open the door, the water is doing its thing but I feel no heat in there aswell.

Also, the reset sequesnce mentioned is not clear as my dish washer model has 5 program buttons (for 5 differen washes).
I tried your reset sequesnce using each of these 5 'Program' buttons to no avail.

We rarely use this machine (3 years old and have only used it about 20 times.)
Please suggest.
Thanks ,
Tony (London)

 

[zipper]

It does sound like a heater problem. When this type of fault occurs on a 5 program model the first two LED's on the left should light permanently & the 5th LED should flash (indicating an E3 alarm). As long as your wash motor/spray arms function as they should a no-heat issue can be caused by any of the following: Open circuit in the element or heater wiring, defective temperature sensor, or faulty heater relay (new pcb required). A good place to start would be to check the element resistance with a multimeter.

 

[tonydee1965]

As per my earlier post, I have dismantled the bottom of the SMEG Dishwasher & put a meter on the terminals of the heater element and it shows approx 30 ohms so I suspect this not being the fault. I have inspected it (and other parts underneath) and all looks fine - ie no black burn marks on the element or any other component underneath.
I could not find any reset button for the thermostat (let alone find the thermostat)! Is it integral with the heating element for this SMEG slimline model (45cm) ?

Next, I took the top part of the control unit off to inspect the PCB and again, this looks fine - ie cannot see any dry joints/blackened area's of any signs of a problem there.
I am considering sending the PCB to 'QER' repairs who can check it.
Any further suggestions to what may be the prblem before i do this?

Thanks Tony

 

[zipper]

At 30 ohms your element is in order. Regardless of whether you have a conventional element or a flow through type it won't have an integral thermostat fitted. That leaves the following culprits; thermostat/NTC, heater relay, level switch, or a wiring issue. It is impossible to track down any diagrams for this particular model but judging by most other Smeg dishwashers it should have a door mounted thermostat http://www.espares.co.uk/part/dishw...41/1213/0/0/970318/dishwasher-thermostat.html (which you can only access by removing the door fascia & outer door skin). In addition there should also be an NTC fitted somewhere in the water circuit on or around the sump area. I would check out the above & also make sure the level switch (pressostat) switches correctly before rushing out to buy a new pcb. Good luck

 

[tonydee1965]

Zipper - firstly, many thanks for your prompt reply over the weekend!!

I checked the door area and the sump area at the bottom of the SMEG dishwasher but was unable to identify the thermostat.

I referred to the part in e-spares i.e. :
http://www.espares.co.uk/part/dishwashers/smeg/p/1083/1213/0/0/970318/dishwasher-thermostat.html
but could not find this part anywhere.
I still suspect it is in the door area but I cannot see this anywhere near the PCB area.
I then referred to the drawings for this machine see attached album with drawing.
If you can identify the part from the drawing then that would be great.

Many thanks
Tony

 

[zipper]

Tony, look at the second drawing showing the inner/outer door. In the middle of the inner door slightly to the right you'll see a small circular part. It has part number 36201...this is the thermal cut-out. I am not sure if it is a resettable type.

 

[tonydee1965]

Hi .....but from what I checked on my dishwasher last night, that drawing sketch with part number 36201 looks a diferent part to what I have seen as a replacement part for this dishwasher i.e. : espares have:

http://www.espares.co.uk/part/dishw...41/1213/0/0/970318/dishwasher-thermostat.html

Stock Number: ES970318
Manufactured by Smeg
Part No. 977870006

Or have I got this wrong completely?

Warm regards

Tony

 

[rocks1]

No that goes on the dump to measure the foam content there is a presure switch on the right hand side if you remove the side panel it's got a black rubber tube connected to it that is what measures the water level. But in 20 years I have never replaced these two parts they are very reliable.

 

[zipper]

I can't pull a drawing on your specific model but it should have the same door mounted thermostat as the DW series. Scroll down to the part list at the bottom of this link http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q...ugpLsf&sig=AHIEtbS7f5PvyGryXndgKEHoHrh7e9cz3A 36201 is a reference number, 977870006 is the part code (the same thermostat as espares). I would remove the door skin & check it with a multimeter first. You should also check out the level switch Rocks mentioned. If both are in order then the heater relay is likely shot.

 

[tonydee1965]

....on with my thread ...

I located the thermostat.
(Stock Number: ES970318
http://www.espares.co.uk/part/dishw...41/1213/0/0/970318/dishwasher-thermostat.html
Manufactured by Smeg
Part No. 977870006 )

Tests as follows [leaving it in the env for at least 5 mins for each test] :

1. With a multimeter (set to K Ohms) the reading at room temperature is approx. 10 ohms.

2. When put in a small cup of almost boiling water the resistance dropped to about 3.5 Ohms.

3. When placed in the freezer and measured at low temperature, the resistance increased to about 66 Ohms.

4. Settling the thermostat back to room temperature, the resistance steadied out at approx 10.7 ohms.

I believe it is fautly as it is the opposite to what this web sit [link below] details? Your suggestions please before I order a new one.
I used this web site to help test this NTC :
http://www.keepingupappliances.com/...elp/how-to-test-a-dishwasher-thermal-cut-out/

Thanks
Tony

 

[zipper]

The resistance of these devices at room temp vary according to manufacturer. Some are as high as 15 - 20 kohm, some are only 5 - 6kohm. But yours doesn't measure 10 ohms at 20C. If you have the resistance scale of your instrument on "k"ohms (1000 ohms scale), it measures 10000 ohms (10k). So on the face of it the readings you got look plausible...10k at room temp falling to 3.5k at around 85C, then increasing to 60k when chilled.
I looked at the schematic in the last link, although not your particular model it does show a bi-metal thermal overload in series with the element. Yours is presumably the same, but if the element reads 30 ohms there is nothing wrong with it (as long as you measured the 30 ohms at the connection plug terminals). The door thermostat may well be in order but the only way to confirm it 100% is to put a new one in & see if it works. Have you checked out what Rocks mentioned earlier (pressure switch & hose)?? At the end of the day...unless you have a broken wire in the heater circuit I fear your heater relay may be history. Might be worthwhile inspecting the pcb for burnt tracks etc & checking for broken wires in the heater circuit (especially around the door pivot point where the wiring is subject to constant movement).