Softwood double glazing

[eilz]

It is possible to remove old windows from my softwood frames and replace them with double glazing units. It is not an option for me to remove the wooden frames, because although old frames they are in fairly ok condition, and it is the MAIN feature of the house(bay windows). The windows have small square windows in a metal frame within the window itself. At the top I have square windows with colour glass in shape of flowers.

The current window(s), are being held in by what I think are strips of lead pushing the windows together at each side in all four sides.

I was hoping to remove the window, rip out the lead strips that hold it in place and measure up a double glazed unit of the same size, and then cut the wood from the inside to cater for a double glazed unit thickness, and place some kind of bead on each end to hold in, with some glazing foam between. (can this be done?)

I am not so sure now, it looks like a huge task. If I was to take out one of the windows could a standard double glazing company install a double glazed panel into my existing frame. I realise the glazed unit will be heaver and thicker, and some cutting will be required, but I don't really care if it looks bad from the inside as long as the outside look ok. Any ideas of costs also.?

Sorry for the vague descriptions, I have limited knowhow of windows/frames.

Thanks for help in advance.

 

[masona]

Give Pilkington Glass a ring for further info, they may do single heat saving or Low-E glass which will be easier for you to do.

 

[eilz]

Sorry, could you explain further please, does that mean I can do what I stated, is this glass you mention similar to double-glazing but thinner?

 

[masona]

Ask them if available, a low-e or heat saving glass single glass instead of double glazed, if so, then you could just replace the glass in your windows so you can still keep your ex-windows frame.

 

[Glassman]

The thinest unit you can get is 14mm thick front to back (4/6/4). If you use butyl tape that will add another 5mm or so to the thickness. So your rebates need to be 19-20mm.

Low E glass (Pilk's K) will help a little with heat loss but you need a cavity of at least 16mm between the glass for it to work properly.

What is it you want achieve? Noise reduction or heat insulation?
If you want to reduce noise then have you considered secondary glazing?

 

[masona]

I don't know if they're still around, years ago Magnet used to sell double glazed unit with the rebate on the outside so the single glass fitted into the window frame then finish off with a internal beading on the inside without having to altered the ex-rebate in the frame.

 

[Glassman]

I don't know if they're still around, years ago Magnet used to sell double glazed unit with the rebate on the outside so the single glass fitted into the window frame then finish off with a internal beading on the inside without having to altered the ex-rebate in the frame.

You mean stepped units?

 

[masona]

Sound about right, I never knew the name of it. The outer glass is in normal position and the inner secondary glass rested on the jamb on the inside finish off with timber beading.

 

[eilz]

I spoke to various glass company and almost all suggested that I would not gain anything in terms of heat using single low-e or K glass on existing timerber frames.

I cannot find anything on stepped units and no idea what they look like or are. I found this link but now really confused on what I should do, to get the most heat effective solution without replacing timber.

Do I get low-e (K) glass (should I use toughened or not?)

OR

Try and find stepped units (cant find any info)

I also saw in wickes today, some double-glazing film, were you use a hair dryer to seal it onto existing windows, a thread on this site seems to sugguest they had positive results.

Some people has also mentioned using a Clear Acrylic Glazing / Glass Sheet inside to cover the existing window.

Thanks again for everyone help/comments