Temperature effect of curtains and carpets

[bugsy]

How much temperature increase does carpets and curtains add to a house?
Over the weekend I was running the heating on full blast but I couldn't get the house temperature above 16C (according to the central heating thermometer). The rads were boiling hot but I still had to keep a fleece on. I wouldn't say it was a particular cold weekend in London.

I've had a brand new central heating system installed with a combi boiler in a detached three bedroom house. The installers are still here finishing off the electrics so there are no carpets down or curtains up. The house is doubled glazed. I have also had all the walls plastered (if that makes a difference) but they are not painted. I have also relagged the loft so it exceeds the 270mm new building requirements. I have not put any reflective material behind the radiators (yet).

I've checked the BTU's for the front room and it is correct according to the websites. I haven't checked for every other room but I assume if the installer has got that room right, the other rooms are right as well.

What difference will the carpets and curtains make? Also a workmate said that I may need to warm the house continuously for several days to warm the bricks/structure of the house (a problem with detached properties).

What do ya think?

I'm wondering whether to bring in an expert to check the system. I don't know if I have cause for complaint.

 

[JohnD]

If it is an oldish house with a wooden ground floor made of planks, carpets will cut down on draughts. they have little insulating effect. But if the floor is concrete they reduce the feeling of chilly feet.

Curtains will stop radiated heat loss and make a noticeable difference.

Get yourself a few ordinary thermometers so you can monitor room temperatures.

If you have recently had the walls plastered they will be cold as they will be drying out and the evaporation of water will absorb heat. You will need ventilation to take the humid air away, and you will get condensation on windows while the walls dry out.

Added to this if the house has been empty it will take a few days to get the walls warm.

Have you got cavity walls? Wall insulation is surprisingly inexpensive and makes a big difference.

I assume you are keeping the internal doors shut to prevent warm air rising up to the landing ceiling where it will do no good.

Can you detect any draughts? Does the loft hatch fit tightly?

Reflectors behind the rads have little effect.

Sometimes installers fit radiators that are rather small, to save money. I like to have oversized radiators so they get the rooms warm quickly (with TRVs they do not waste heat once up to temp). Give us an example of room size and radiator size please.

 

[bugsy]

> Have you got cavity walls?
No. It's a 1958 build so I doubt it would have the cavity wall insulation. I'll look into that if the heat doesn't return.

> Can you detect any draughts?
The double glazing is money and there weren't any significant draughts. But I was planning on adding a little extra sealant in the coming weeks (although some recommend a little draught in order to circulate the air in the house).

> Does the loft hatch fit tightly?
Yes. And I put the thermawrap stuff on the back of the loft hatch for a little extra protection.

I'm afraid I can't give any estimates right now, I left the room sizes at home. The room I checked, the watt output of the radiator was about 300 above required watt for the room.

My mother has just told me that you have to heat up the walls as well (and mother's know best) so I guess I was panicking. I'll start building up the heat in the house ready for Jan.

If it is too cold I have portable heating devices (years of renting) and I'll beef up the radiators during next summer.

Thanks for your advice John. It means I will be able to sleep easier tonight and the gas board will be very happy.