Tiling around a bath ... advice please

[ABN]

Hi

Just fitted a new bath and sealed to to the walls with silicon sealer so its already water tight. Now about to start the tiling.

Only going to tile where the bath is and only up about 4 tiles using 10x10 glass tiles. Have done so search but a little unsure about a couple of things.

1) Should I start the tiling at bath level or fix a batten 1 tile up. Fix the other 3 tiles then do the bath level ones last. Thus allowing for any small bowing of the bath edge.

2) Should the bath level tile sit on the bath or be spaced above it to allow for a line of grout between tile and bath.

3) Since the bath has been fixed in place with silicon and is water tight do I still need to run a line of silicon along the edge of the tile/grout where it meets the bath. Will be using slightly coloured grout so doubt that I could get a similar coloured silicon sealer.

Thanks

 

[gcol]

1. You can do that, but as you're only tiling 4 rows, unless the bath is way off level or really out of shape I wouldn't bother.

2. I'd just sit the tiles on the bath.

3. Yes, silicone the tiles to the bath.

 

[Richard C]

Run a bead of silicone around the edge of the bath as it will move when filled with you & the water (probably weighing around 700lbs); grout will crack & fall out! Use white sanitary grade to prevent mould growth, white goes with practically anything + I suspect the bath is probably also white!

I agree with gcol & wouldn’t bother with battening; I would, however, space the bottom row of tiles 2-3mm from the bath to allow a key for the silicone bead, this helps to prevent it splitting away from the tiles when the bath moves.

 

[ABN]

Thanks for the replies will do it without a batten and leave small gap between bath and tile for the silicon.

Although don't think the bath should move. Its made with Carronite which they claim "has a strength and rigidity normally associated with a cast iron or heavy gauge steel bath". Also the room was adjusted to fit the bath such that there was about a 2-3mm gap around it. That was filled to a depth of 10-15 mm with the silicon sealer (took 2 full tubes to do it. Hope I never have to try to remove it ) with th ebath full of water and left for 2 days to cure.
Thus you still feel the need to silicon the tiles?

 

[Richard C]

Although don't think the bath should move. Its made with Carronite which they claim "has a strength and rigidity normally associated with a cast iron or heavy gauge steel bath".

Your post was not clear where the bathroom is located but unless it's on a concrete floor, believe me the bath will move in relation to the walls; or more correctly the timber that's supporting it will!

 

[ABN]

the timber that's supporting it will!

True hadn't thought about that.

thanks again

 

[Andy-D]

As you are using glass tiles, you should also make sure your adhesive is white and has 100% coverage otherwise you might see the wall or adhesive through the tile.

Also agree with the others re leaving a small gap above the bath (eg 1 2mm spacer).

Andy

 

[ABN]

Adhesive showing shouldn't be a problem as I will be using these tiles

http://www.decorumtilestudio.co.uk/indian-summer.html

which have a metallic effect backing.

What not to confident about with them though is cutting and drilling. Any tips on that would be appriciated

 

[Richard C]

What not to confident about with them though is cutting and drilling. Any tips on that would be appriciated

As far as cutting goes, any decent tile cutter should be OK for straight cuts. For angles & L shapes invest in diamond wheel cutter. A decent DIY cutter costs under £30 & is perfectly adequate as long as you’re not using it every day. I bought a "Tile-It" cutter from B&Q on recomendation of the guy that laid my conservatory tiles & it works a treat even when cutting bevelled edges for external corners without trim. It's a bit like watching glass cutters at work & mostly about confidence really; not sure why you want to drill them though!

 

[olly_k]

If they are small mossaics I find a seperate scorer and hand held tile breaker can be indespensible for breaking the little bu7ggers!

 

[ABN]

not sure why you want to drill them though!

for fitting such things as the soap dish holder and shower head attachment (only used for washing hair and rinsing bath) i.e. things that may need to be screwed to the wall.

If they are small mossaics

nah they are 10cmx10cm tiles

 

[Moz]

I would recommend you do use a batten as a diyer ..

just so you dont start going off .........