Triton Opal 10.5kw Shower (low Pressure)

Erm. sorry, it's a Bewitch, but I think they're just the same inside????

Is it easy to buy / install a new pcb? - without being a qualified electrician or plumber?!
 
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To be honest I might as well buy a new shower if a new pcb is over £60! Something else will go wrong as soon as I've done it.

Appreciate the info though, thanks.
 
gvdiynot";p="1486780 said:
Thanks MarkWat!

I spent over a week looking for a fix and was worried had to replace the whole unit! Can't believe Trident haven't fixed this fault yet after so many posts and people complaining about the poor quality of their electirc showers. It's simply poor design.

Problem: after a couple of years and with no changes to my home's plumbing, all of a sudden the shower started showing the dreaded 'low pressure' warning.
Result: no hot water - just cold.

Solution (5 min):
- switch off electric mains (health&safety)
- open the front panel
- disconnect the jumper connecting cable to front panel
- inser piece of paper/cardboard between microswitch (at the bottom-end of circuit board) and plastic connector (feeding the cold water to the shower)
- re-connect front panel
- switch-on mains
--> electric shower works a treat!

Got rid of the low pressure warning thanks to this but have low pressure with the hot water settings but not cold?? Any ideas??
 
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you probably haven't cured the problem as the problem lies with a bad solder connection on the rear of pcb.
 
I assume that the problem highlighted by the original post has now been sorted as it was sometime ago but hopefully some information which may of help / interested to other parties should they require help.

The symptoms reported could be caused by a number of reasons - the Power PCB for example has a number of functioning components which could cause the problem however we also need to consider if we have the min running water pressure to the unit and if there are any blockages / restrictions to the water supply to the unit - ie debris in inlet filter, isolation valves not fully open, general pipe work debris / blockage.
 
I would recommend testing the mains pressure initially. If it is low, a tighter jet on the showerhead will stop it from dropping as much when the shower is running.

Triton 1 - a bit of a smooth post on this subject - please could you address the accusations that there may be a design fault with your product. Are Triton aware of any design fault with this product? Please answer yes or no.

Thanks.
 
Whilst I appreciate assistance with replies from manufacturers its a pity Triton did not help me a few years ago.

I went to a failed cheap Wickes pump and persuaded the customer let me fit a branded pump and suggested a £139 Triton pump.

That failed after two weeks with an open circuit motor and I had to buy a new Watermill pump and go out to her on a saturday afternoon for two hours.

The response from Triton was abysmal. All they would offer was that I could return the pump to them and they would inspect it and then decide if they might replace it. Not much help for the customer without a shower for weeks on end!

I was so astounded with such an unhelpful response that I never returned the pump and ended up losing the purchase price of £139 plus wasting two hours on a Saturday!

Tony
 
My Triton Martinique was switching heater on-off, cycling every few seconds with low pressure light coming on. Have removed power board and replaced capacitor(small rectangular one near top of board) 100nf 275v x2. this costs 60p from farnell, item no: 161-2243.
All working ok now!
 
I have had an ongoing problem with a low pressure light coming on. I tried the fix with a bit of card under the micro switch and this worked for about a year.

Recently the low pressure light was coming on when using heated water position 1, but was okay on heated position 2. Then it started doing it on position 2 setting.

I looked at my PCB and it was 7073333, so read up about it on all the forums and posted a question on 'Shower Doc', who gave me a series of tests to follow. This lead me to conclude it was the PCB that was faulty.

Bought a new PCB for £60.16 delivered and fitted it today.

I was very careful about turning off the electric and photographing all the connections. I put the new PCB in and it now works fine.

I have no electrical experience but am a DIY'er. It took me 20 mins max, and I am pleased with myself. :mrgreen: Everything now works fine!

One good tip... cover the plug hole before taking out the screws from the PCB. I nearly lost one. :D
 
hi there, the board 7073333, this is the problematic board right? what board number should it be replaced with? or is it just a case of a new 7073333? cheers guys
 
Hi,

We have recently moved into a new house which as the above shower installed in it. When we moved in it worked fine, then it became intermitant.

The shower would be working fine, then the low pressure light would come on and shower goes cold, yet it still has a constant flow of water coming from it.

Over the last few days it has stopped running hot altogether and it just continually shows the low pressure light and runs cold.

Can anyone suggest a reason for this, or how I would go about fixing it?

thanks in advance

I have had the same problem with old triton opal shower, I found out that it was the pressure switch soldered joint was not soldered in very well in the first place. there was 4 pins, 2 to hold the pressure switch in place and 2 contacts. Got these re-soldered and all work fine for ages.
Get it checked by someone who has the correct knowledge to do the job . Hope this helps.
 

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