tyrolean onto old render?

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My rendered 3 bed semi which was built in 1947 needs some tlc on the exterior.
Structurally the house is fine (as far as I know) but there are some slight cracks in the render, one of which is horizontal and runs the width of the gable end, where the roof trusses meet the wall.
Some of the paint is flaking off on all 3 walls as it was probably last done 15 years ago at least.
We are getting damp penetrating through around the downstairs gable end window (gets the brunt of the weather).
Now I want to keep costs down naturally, so am considering hiring scaffolding, digging out the cracks and filling them, removing and repairing the blown areas of render and paint, then tyroleaning over the top.

Will this stop the damp and is this a good way to tackle the problem?

Do I need to remove ALL old paint, and will the Tyrolean hide any imperfections or differences in surface level?

I guess the biggest outley will be the scaffold hire?

I'm not in the trade.

Thanks
 
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it sounds like the window is the cause of the damp so unless you sort this tyrolean wont make any odds. Its nearly impossible to hide imperfections on rendering especially when the sun shines on it but tyrolean will hide it better then most other ways. this is a job for a professional and done badly will make your house look a mess and probably knock thousands off it.
 
Cheers for the reply Jbonding.

The windows have all been replaced in the house with uPVC since we bought it, and I hoped it would fix the problem, as the plaster was damp/blown when original windows were in.

But it hasn't.

The cavity is a closed cavity around the window, with slate separating the inner and out skin.

There was an airvent at the top of the gable end directly above the window, which vented into a bedroom, but I thought rain could be entering here and running down the cavity, see I bricked it up.

All I can think now is that rain is getting behind the render, and soaking through the brick work, and possible travelling through on the slate/mortar?

We might remove the window and clear the cavity out first?
 
Is this a common problem with closed cavities that are lined with slate?

Also, any more feedback on wether or not I need to remove all the old paint prior to the tyrolean being applied would be great :)

Cheers

Steve
 
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if the paint is loose scrape it off, you can then mix up cement, PVA and a handfull of and sand with some water, mixed to a slurry and applied with a roller. once this has dried it will provide a mechanical key for the tyrolean, or you can buy some renda-bond but this will be a bit more expensive. there are probably other products on the market but ive always used this technique and its never failed but i am also an experienced plasterer so if theres a problem before or after i will notice it or can remedy it.
 

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