Understairs toilet questions

[fex10]

Hey!

Are there any specially made small loos that have a compact form especially for tight spaces?

Also, with the macerator, how complex can the route of the outlet to the sewer be? And does it need to be accessible? Does a hatch to get into the under floor space (foundations) count as accessible?

It's got about 8m to go, under the kitchen floor, and should be able to do with only one 90 degree bend to get there.

Thanks!!

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Have a look at the Saniflo website for more details on the munchers, but I, (I think along with a lot of the regular guys), hate those things with a passion. If you cant fit a 4" soil pipe from the new WC I'd really think twice. See here: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/humour.html

 

[muggles]

The Sanicompact 43 is only 43cm from the wall to the front of the pan

 

[fex10]

Have a look at the Saniflo website for more details on the munchers, but I, (I think along with a lot of the regular guys), hate those things with a passion. If you cant fit a 4" soil pipe from the new WC I'd really think twice. See here: http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/humour.html

Ok noted. There's another drain very close, it takes the rainwater and the water from the kitchen sink, washing machine etc. I'm guessing this is something previously illegally done? Or did some houses have combined rainwater/sewage drain? Will it be in my house deeds or do I ask Thames water?

I can see about running 4" and can take the opportunity to reroute the kitchen sink and washing machine if it turns out it's illegally connected to the rainwater drain. But I've noticed all the houses in my street have it this way.

 

[fex10]

Also, any word on whether the waste needs to be accessible?

 

[ree]

You can get S-trap spigot, close-coupled toilets.

Below the floor you can (done carefully) punch thro any brickwork blocking a soil pipe straight run. That would presumably eliminate the 90.

Break thro the outside wall before turning down into the ground

Providing its the right diameter, the drain you mention could be broken into with a wye.

If you scan & post dimensioned sketches of the u/stairs floor plan, and a section view showing the stair slope soffit it would help.

You would need a small corner hand basin in the compartment.

A fan connected to the light will work - altho there are much more efficient & expensive extractors available.

 

[Nige F]

do I ask Thames water?
. But I've noticed all the houses in my street have it this way.

Just check with TW but it's almost certainly a combined sewer

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

When were the properties built? Pre 1950's are most likely to be on a combined sewer, (foul and rainwater into the one sewer).

 

[fex10]

1930's property. I stand corrected, not all the houses visibly use one drain for foul and rain water, but doesn't mean they don't, just I can't see! I will check with Thames water.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Check with Thames, or you can do a dye test yourself. Get some drain test dye (Screwfix are one retailer that carries it), and pour some dyed water down the toilet, gullies etc. Watch at the manhole(s), if it all appears at the same point you've a combined system. If the rainwater and WC water dont appear to mix seek further advice.

 

[fex10]

I spoke to Thames water, the drains are separate! So my house, and some of my neighbours have their kitchens dumping water into the rainwater drain :/ I will have this fixed of course.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

I wouldn't get too excited just yet, whilst they may be a partially separate system in operation, (rainwater from the roads and possibly front gutters) was drained into a storm system, it was rare to lay storm and foul drains into each property in that era. Rear rainwater downpipes often went into the kitchen gullies. I would ask Thames to do a site visit and show you the sewer maps, rather than rely on info from a phone call. This is where the dye test helps.

 

[fex10]

Thanks Hugh. The rainwater drain has some sort of traps, so would need a lot of dye to get past that. Also Thames water identified two manholes, one for rainwater and one for foul.

I asked Thames water if some houses really do have combined drains, they said yes, some princial towns like Bristol they said, and certain era houses, eg Victorian. After that, they said, soakaways started being used, then something something I forgot exactly.

I'm going to have a go at running 4", it's just much tougher and I have no idea how to connect to the manhole.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Firstly ensure you can get a suitable fall, (slope), on your new drain. Needs to be ideally 1:40 but as little as 1:100 can be used if you're pushed. Connection to manhole will be a case of breaking a hole into the existing chamber, pipe needs to enter to discharge into direction of flow, and make good with concrete to seal the hole, and a strong mortar mix to finish the benching.

I appreciate it's a lot more work but a properly laid drain should never cause a problem, unless vast quantities of fat are deposited down it. Fit and forget.

 

[fex10]

Oki, I've done far more difficult tasks, it's just a question of putting in the time now. We're doing the kitchen now, so I will need to lay the 4" before the kitchen floor goes down. The manhole is under the kitchen, it was built over when the extension was done in the 70's.