Vibrating/ droning sound since new hot water cylinder was installed.

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Title: S-Plan system severe vibration/drone on HW circuit only after new cylinder install
Post Body:
Hi everyone,
Hoping to get some thoughts on a severe harmonic vibration / "airplane drone" issue that started the exact day a new hot water cylinder was installed.
System Setup:
The Problem & Symptoms:
  1. When Hot Water only is active and the boiler fires, a massive, deep harmonic intermittent drone echoes through the entire house structure. This seems to happen when cylinder is fully heated and no one has used any hot water.
  2. When both HW and CH is on the vibration if possible seems worse, more frequent intermittent drones that continue for longer.
  3. When the HW is run on continuous for long periods, the upstairs radiators warm up on their own, despite the central heating room thermostat being turned down to zero.
  4. The Smoking Gun: When the system is in mid-drone at its absolute worst, manually sliding the central heating 2-port valve lever to the "Manual" open position kills the noise instantly. Returning it to "Auto" brings the drone right back.
  5. The system is completely silent when running on Central Heating only.
Plumber came back and has replaced the 2 port valve for hot water and attached anti vibration pipe clamp, but the noise continues.
I have been advised that a Auto bypass valve should of been placed in the airing cupboard to prevent dead heading?
But don’t want to keep paying for unnecessary valves that don’t fix the issue.
Any advise at this stage would be very much appreciated.
 
Title: S-Plan system severe vibration/drone on HW circuit only after new cylinder install
Post Body:
Hi everyone,
Hoping to get some thoughts on a severe harmonic vibration / "airplane drone" issue that started the exact day a new hot water cylinder was installed.
System Setup:
The Problem & Symptoms:
  1. When Hot Water only is active and the boiler fires, a massive, deep harmonic intermittent drone echoes through the entire house structure. This seems to happen when cylinder is fully heated and no one has used any hot water.
  2. When both HW and CH is on the vibration if possible seems worse, more frequent intermittent drones that continue for longer.
  3. When the HW is run on continuous for long periods, the upstairs radiators warm up on their own, despite the central heating room thermostat being turned down to zero.
  4. The Smoking Gun: When the system is in mid-drone at its absolute worst, manually sliding the central heating 2-port valve lever to the "Manual" open position kills the noise instantly. Returning it to "Auto" brings the drone right back.
  5. The system is completely silent when running on Central Heating only.
Plumber came back and has replaced the 2 port valve for hot water and attached anti vibration pipe clamp, but the noise continues.
I have been advised that a Auto bypass valve should of been placed in the airing cupboard to prevent dead heading?
But don’t want to keep paying for unnecessary valves that don’t fix the issue.
Any advise at this stage would be very much appreciated.
The next time it's heating up and noisy, just drain off say around 2 or 3 litres of HW and see if the noise dies down.
Can you post a photo of the valve group, including the balanced cold and the EV connections.
 
IMG_0505.jpegIMG_0506.jpegNo new pump has been fitted.
There is an expansion tank also above…I’ve built shelves around it, (it’s just out of shot)
 
View attachment 424041View attachment 424042No new pump has been fitted.
There is an expansion tank also above…I’ve built shelves around it, (it’s just out of shot)

That's got nothing to do with the unvented cylinder cold/hot water.
You should see a combination valve set on the incoming mains cold water supply to the UV cylinder with piping as shown, it may be installed up high adjacent to the cylinder but should be easily seen.

1791737111355.jpeg
 
Sounds like a restriction in the HW circuit. Are any manual valves fully open? It shouldn't be the HW motorised valve, as the limit switch which fires the boiler isn't made till fully open, if it's wired correctly.

You say
2. When both HW and CH is on the vibration if possible seems worse,
do you mean CH called on the programmer, or actually calling for heat via the roomstat? Because if the latter, it seems to contradict your point 4.
 

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