Water in worktop edges

[redfield]

I've got water in the joint between two worktop edges in the kitchen and it's starting to lift one of them. Is there anything I can do to rectify this or have I got to replace the damaged one? The edges were apparently sealed but the water has managed to get through somehow

 

[Scrit]

Once water gets into the core of a laminated chipboard top it will swell the fibres and that will be irreversible, I'm afraid. The only way to hold it is to silicone the joint, although it's likely to be a temporary solution at best. BTW, how long have your tops been in?

Scrit

 

[redfield]

Scrit - they worktops have only been in a few weeks. Can I put a weight on the joint to as it dries out to try and get it back down?

 

[Scrit]

You may be lucky, but without dismantling the joint I can't really see how you'll ever get a watertight seal. How was the joint put together?

Scrit

 

[redfield]

The joints were routed by a carpenter but I actually fitted them together on the base units. I think I used PVA as a sealer as I was advised to do. I can separate them but it will be a workup. I cant do anything until next weekend I'll see what happens during the week - hopefully it will dry out on it's own accord. Thanks for your advice.

 

[Scrit]

PVA on it's own isn't good enough I'm afraid because PVA has an anoying tendency to revert to a semi-liquid state when immersed in water for even relatively short perods, and you may find that the joint further down has bonded and can't be broken without damage occurring. From my perspective if I were refitting I'd advise replacing the top(s). Probably something you don't want to hear, but in my case I don't want a boomerang job which I'll need to return to.

If/when you remake the joint by all means use PVA for the bottom of the joint (but only ever the Exterior grade, D3, like Evostik BLUE) but bond the top and front of the joint with either ColorBond coloured worktop jointing compound or something similar (available from Trend stockists, Travis Perkins, Woodfit, Unika, etc) or even a good quality silicone sealant. For black/dark grey worktops I favour Evostik Trade silicone, not the cheapest, but sticks like **** and seals well in my experience.

Scrit

 

[Welstead]

I had someone cut worktop three years ago. He cut it and I joined it. It used (clear silicone) on each side of the joint by wiping it in with my thumb, so that both edges were completely covered, then butted and bolted together. The silicone will ooze out a little when its tightened .When tightened enough wipe the ooze off with white spirit. That joint has often got water on it, but it has not swollen yet.