What is the best cordless sander for removing interior paint?

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Hi All,

I have a mammoth task of either removing or at the very least keying the surface of all my interior window frames and sills and most likely the staircase too. Is a delta sander or random orbital sander the way to go and what size grit(s) do I need. Any brands better than another on both the sander and paper? I'm in the Bosch (green) 18V eco-system so would prefer Bosch if possible.

Cheers
Daz
 
Tough to answer... I am a profession decorator so I can justify spending £500+ on sanders and then the dust extractor (read: vacuum cleaner) that makes my life so much easier.

If you can only justify one sander, a random orbit will will flatten the finish much faster than a delta sander. However given the size of the disk, you will need to resort to hand sanding in the corners.

I treat existing paint as a kind of filler which can be sanded flat.

When working indoors, I seldom burn paint off, preferring to sand the paint back.

Abrasives? I tend to gravitate towards 80 grit for paint removal, higher grades for smoothing in between coats. I tend to max out at 240 grit. Higher than that and you risk polishing the surface and impairing adhesion.

If you are only looking at providing a key, purchase some 180 grit silicon carbide paper. It should be about £2 per metre. If rounded profiles such as spindles, effin' expensive, but at about £9 per meter, Abranet mesh is brilliant. And it does last quite a while.
 
OK. Thanks very much. A delta sander makes sense then as I can get into all the little corners, etc. with it. As I'm going from a dark grey to a white finish, is there anything I can do to prevent me doing loads of coats?
 
OK. Thanks very much. A delta sander makes sense then as I can get into all the little corners, etc. with it. As I'm going from a dark grey to a white finish, is there anything I can do to prevent me doing loads of coats?

Are you using oil based paints or water based paints?

One or two coats of white Dulux Trade oil based undercoat will obliterate the dark grey. The key caveat being that you will need to wait longer for the paint to cure before applying waterbased finishes over the top. If you apply them too quickly, you will get "fish eyes"- the water based paint effectively pulls away from the solvents in the oil based and creates craters.

I am old skool. I am not particularly fond of waterbased undercoats.

Perhaps @Wayners can recommend one that will obliterate the grey in as few coats as possible
 
It'll be all water based paints I'll be using.
Fair enough. I spent many years using waterbased primers on naked MDF, but 99% of the time I would then use oil based paints to finish the units.

I think you need @Wayners to help you going forward. He is a fellow decorator he seems to be a fan of waterbased paints.

TBH, as someone that respects his opinion, I look forward to his answer.

Best of luck
 
I think a festool RTS 400 cordless will work with the new pads that came on market this year..
They mould well to architecture.
Use with 120 grade paper if you want to key old gloss to paint.
Mesh is better for filler. Paper for gloss as harder surface.


You will need some kind of HEPA dust vacuum though.
 

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