What size sds bit for 160mm x 7.5mm masonry torx bolts/screws UPVC ?

Joined
5 Jan 2009
Messages
282
Reaction score
5
Country
United Kingdom
Hi All

Got a small window to fit in garage, top opener, i have ordered 160mm x7.5mm SDS masonry gold screws/bolts.

What size bit do i need, a 210mm 6mm or 6.5 mm ??

Should i drill through the frame first with a normal HSS metal bit, before i go into the brick with the masonry bit ?

Also can someone recommend a decent glue/activator and how to apply it for when i apply make up ( will be getting from Screwfix ir toolstation) as i have heard some activator can 'yellow' the upvc.

Cheers
 
Sponsored Links
We normally use a 6mm sds masonary bit , predrilling any frame with a 4mm hss , then a 6mm hss and countersink.

not suree what makes screwfix do in superglue ...normally use Eurocell but any 20mg/50mg superglue in a pot , with any activator should be fine
 
So i would just put on white silicone on back of make up, the a thin layer of glue along the very edge where it meets the upvc window, and spray the window where it will be touching pvc to pvc and hold in place for 5 mins ?
 
I normally put dors of superglue along the edge of the trim that is fitting onto the pvc frame... quick spray of activator onto the frame , place trim on frame , should set in less than 60 seconds! Then apply silicone or caulk where needed to tidy up job . Whatever you DO NOT use superglue on woodgrain effect frames or trims as it tends to leave a nasty white mark
 
Sponsored Links
I tend to use a 6.5, as I find the screws sometimes bind with the 6mm, so it's possible that not all screws are the same. It might be better trying a couple of test holes first. You'd either use the silicone, and no edging strip, or put the ending strip in, and then silicone the outer edge. If you're using activator, then it should go off in about 10 seconds at the most; 5 minutes would be the time without using it.

If you've got a steady hand, then you can superglue the edging strip, and spray activator on the frame, and then carefully put the two together as you move down the frame.

The frame will deflect slightly as the screw goes home, so a countersunk hole isn't necessary. I go straight through the frame, into the brickwork, and then put the screw in. Yes, a bit quick and dirty, bit it works nicely.
 
I'll get a 210mm 6mm and 6.5mm...Predrill wwith 4mm as the frame has metal...Still confused on whether u just use glue/act OR glue/act with a bit silicone on the rear of make-up ?

Cheers
 
There's nothing to stop you using silicone to seal the gap around the window, prior to putting your edging strip on, if that's what you want, as long as you don't get any silicone on the window frame, but it really isn't necessary - it's definitely belt and braces. If the frames got metal, then you'll need the same drill HSS size as the SDS drill you use.
 
There's nothing to stop you using silicone to seal the gap around the window, prior to putting your edging strip on, if that's what you want, as long as you don't get any silicone on the window frame, but it really isn't necessary - it's definitely belt and braces. If the frames got metal, then you'll need the same drill HSS size as the SDS drill you use.

Tried that, it just 'falls off' when up against plaster/brick...needed about 20 bits of wood just to 'jam' it and hold it in place, and that was the shortest piece...
 
I think what Doggit is saying , is seal all visible gaps between walls and frame with silicone then using superglue /activator apply your trim, you should apply superglue/ activator to where trim will meet window frame , if you have smeared silicone here by accident the superglue/activator won't stick.
Oncee all trims are attached , clean windowframe and trims and seal with silicone where the edges of the frame meets the trim , and where trim meets walls
 
Cheers, i was going to seal any gaps etc with expanding foam, looks like if i'm good to go just hope my cheapy impact driver (Ryobi one battery fits all) does the job.

Allin test on youtube it's nail gun and impact beat ALL other brands from dewat, Bosch, Millwauke !!!
 
Fitted easily, used bit of expanding foam, cut away excess. Then used mitre mate on the VERY edge of plastic make(Iglue on make, spray on widow), i also added sliver of white silicone to make up.

Cheers guys, got another to do now, those screws are brilliant and using mitre mate speeding things up.

:mrgreen:
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top