Which mtb tyre?

[nauseous]

Any bikers here? Need a new rear mtb tyre. Don't do much off road so mainly riding on tarmac. Both front/rear are currently 26x1.90 Kenda nobblys but thinking about wet winter road grip i thought why buy a nobbly tyre, don't really ride in icey or slushy road conditions so maybe go for a slick hybrid tyre instead for the extra grip but not too sure it's safe to mix bike tyres.
It's only a cheap secondhand bike, a bit tatty tbh, has front & rear suspension if that's relevant?
Don't want to replace the front tyre to match new rear but appreciate front, being a nobbly, probably wont grip as well as slick rear. Not had any grip issues so far so should i just slick with nobbly's?

This is the new one i been eying up, what do you rekon?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Fincci-Mou...071VR9V5V/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Blimey you can get 2 for 17.90 free del off ebay. Are they legit?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fincci-2...hash=item2cc76cc71f:m:mFIFb1SHmBfDX8aeVFGflfA

Sheesh is that the time!!

 

[motorbiking]

those tyres are utterly poo. You might just as well get yourself down to wilko and get tyres..
You want your grippy tyre on the front not the back.

There are plenty of decent tyres on eBay..
search for Specialized Fast Trak or Specialized Renegade. The fast traks are a good allrounder and fairly cheap as people mistakenly think they aren't any good as they are often OE. The renegade's are faster rolling less grip. Unless you are cross country racing on a lightweight bike - avoid the s-works version as you'll not benefit from the weight savings but will find them a bit soft.

Kenda Nevegal are also good all season tyres and pretty grippy.

Ideally a folding bead - if budget will stretch.

It is safe to mix bike tyres, but you want your grippy fattest tyre up front. Think how easy it is to control a rear wheel slide vs the front.

lock out your suspension if you only ride on the road and run them harder (e.g. 40-45psi)

 

[Biker1959]

At first I was totally confused until I realised you were asking about bicycle tyres and not Motorbike tyres!

 

[ReganAndCarter]

I ride a MTB which spends 99% of the time on tarmac. First thing I did was bin the knobbly tyres, as I have bad memories of the pathetic grip they have on wet and greasy roads in my motorcycling days. Couple of times the trail type bike I was riding just slid out from under me on a wet corner, even though I wasn't going very fast.

Anyway, back to push bikes. I put on low/mid range tyres, but they had to have some form of puncture protection. Have had Schwalbe City Jets on for several years and been very happy with them. Had a fair bit of use, but like new. Only £11 each on Ebay, delivered. Yes, there's ones for as much as you want to pay, but on an older bike it doesn't make sense to spend lots of money. Bet you would hardly be able to tell the difference anyway. For me, knobblies belong off road. Slicks offer much better grip, because there's more rubber in contact with the road than knobblies.

The Schwalbes say on the sidewall to run them at 80 psi. I think that's a little too firm, and not good for the wheels absorbing shock from potholes, etc on rock hard tyres. I run them on 65 rear and 60 psi front and seems just right for me.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Schwalbe...hash=item2cd1334aee:m:mXYZEdt-rNWhM5QYpwbamCQ

Or for a bit more money, these Kendas look good.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Kenda-K1...m=122858468520&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

 

[nauseous]

those tyres are utterly poo. You might just as well get yourself down to wilko and get tyres..
You want your grippy tyre on the front not the back.

Sometimes you pay for the name as in the branding, manufacturers are pretty good at exploiting our insecurities.
The difference between a no nonsense basic bike tyre and one that could cost up to 2 or 3x as much is often sometimes negligible and any benefit perhaps is only relevant on the demand of the product like extreme endurance and pushing the limits etc, which is something i don't plan on doing, I'm sure there's a happy middle ground somewhere.
Perhaps you can elaborate and tell me why you think they are poo?

I agree with your point about the front grip. Prob be a good idea to put the new hybrid on the front and the nobbly
on the back.

search for Specialized Fast Trak or Specialized Renegade. The fast traks are a good allrounder and fairly cheap as people mistakenly think they aren't any good as they are often OE

Those SFT tyres seem to be tubeless and probably aren't suitable for my rims, thanks anyway.

lock out your suspension if you only ride on the road and run them harder (e.g. 40-45psi)

Not sure where you're from but round here the state of some of the roads are pretty shocking, that's why i bought a bike with full suspension!, far less likely to buckle a wheel or worse be jolted off, injured, not to mention the comfort of the ride.

Anyway, back to push bikes. I put on low/mid range tyres, but they had to have some form of puncture protection. Have had Schwalbe City Jets on for several years and been very happy with them

They sound good but I couldn't see those on the bay in my size mate. 26x1.95 and i don't really want to slim
tyres down.

On a side note, how the **** do you undo the italics option? Tapping it changes it back to normal but then it just reverts back when you start typing! Poxy ******* thing nearly drove me mad!

 

[motorbiking]

tubeless tyres work fine with inner tubes - it just means they can be run tubeless - i.e. they are air tight. Full suspension, particularly on low end bikes causes pedal bob, which will suck anything from 10-20% of your pedal efficiency. I've done quite a bit of MTBing, 24 hour racing, ultra endurance. I have a variety of bikes. If I was choosing between my 3 MTBs for riding on the road, I'd leave my Whyte 146works (full carbon, full suspension) and take my 901 (hard tail) or the pub bike (old ridgeback I bought for a tenner). The fully rigid ridgeback would be a lot better riding on the road.

If you are going to run a slick and a nobbly - run the slick on the back

 

[Avocet]

I do very similar riding to the OP ( 26" wheel MTB on the road). I've been very impressed with Continental's "Contact Travel" tyres.

https://conti-tyres.co.uk/commuting-touring/contact-travel

Just over £20.

They have some vestigial knobbles on the shoulders for when you sink into the soft stuff, but the centre of the tread is slick. Decent low rolling resistance for the money (although there are better out there to be had for those with deeper pockets!) and they can be run at up to 80 PSI if you're not anticipating any soft stuff. Don't get me wrong, they're not great off road, but better than road tyres! Also, mine have a nice retro-reflective white band around them, which is comforting at this time of the year.

 

[nauseous]

I do very similar riding to the OP ( 26" wheel MTB on the road). I've been very impressed with Continental's "Contact Travel" tyres.

https://conti-tyres.co.uk/commuting-touring/contact-travel

Just over £20.

They have some vestigial knobbles on the shoulders for when you sink into the soft stuff, but the centre of the tread is slick. Decent low rolling resistance for the money (although there are better out there to be had for those with deeper pockets!) and they can be run at up to 80 PSI if you're not anticipating any soft stuff. Don't get me wrong, they're not great off road, but better than road tyres! Also, mine have a nice retro-reflective white band around them, which is comforting at this time of the year.

I did consider one of those but as i sometimes ride over sand and on the path under trees, thorns etc i opted for another nobbly in the end as they are less prone to punctures. A good no nonsense tyre and about 9 quid delivered.

 

[Mr Pig]

I opted for another nobbly in the end as they are less prone to punctures.

That's not really true. The carcass is very thin between the knobs and, especially on cheap tyres, is easy to puncture. Knobbly tyres are also crap for road riding, which is kinda why road bikes don't have them? ;0) Rolling resistance is higher, they wear faster and grip in both the wet and dry is worse.

Those tyres you bought aren't knobbles though and tread type is fine for the use you described. Quality wise they are probably ****e though ;0)

 

[JohnD]

mtb

What does the "T" stand for?

 

[motorbiking]

Originally All Mountain/Trail Bike.

 

[nauseous]

That's not really true. The carcass is very thin between the knobs and, especially on cheap tyres, is easy to puncture. Knobbly tyres are also crap for road riding, which is kinda why road bikes don't have them? ;0) Rolling resistance is higher, they wear faster and grip in both the wet and dry is worse.

Those tyres you bought aren't knobbles though and tread type is fine for the use you described. Quality wise they are probably ****e though ;0)

I didn't provide a link to the tyre I eventually bought, which was a knobbly, made by one of the biggest and best bike tyre manufacturer ITW, who incidentally, don't make crap tyres. I can assure you it has performed on and off road very well thank you.

The tyre is designed for on and off road and is engineered to withstand punctures more than any standard slick road tyre.
Thank you and have a nice evening.

 

[Mr Pig]

I didn't provide a link to the tyre I eventually bought, which was a knobbly, made by one of the biggest and best bike tyre manufacturer ITW, who incidentally, don't make crap tyres.

So.... what is it then?

 

[nauseous]

So.... what is it then?

A Raleigh T1287.

 

[Mr Pig]

A Raleigh T1287.

Sorry, but that is a rubbish tyre and it's not very suited to the use you describe.