Whirlpool AWO/R205 washer
- Thread starter cozycats
- Start date
Thanks I'd realised just before your post 
It's R4205, or 859234615008, the manual just says probably electrical......call service centre. I've since examined more closely and the wash and rinse lights are also lit (an error code?) , the pump seems to be working and I think it stops when drum rotation is required. I've taken the top off and the drive belt is sound. We have a proper water softener so can't be scale!!
Thanks
It's R4205, or 859234615008, the manual just says probably electrical......call service centre. I've since examined more closely and the wash and rinse lights are also lit (an error code?) , the pump seems to be working and I think it stops when drum rotation is required. I've taken the top off and the drive belt is sound. We have a proper water softener so can't be scale!!Thanks
The status LED's do signal an alarm code. There should be a row consisting of 7 lights, the first & last lights in the row have double LED's. Can you explain which lights are indicated when the machine stops? Count from left to right or post a photo of the LED panel.
from left we have 1) water tap closed, underneath clean pump
2) prewash
3) wash LIT UP
4) rinse LIT UP
5) rinsehold
6) spin
7) door open and underneath Service LIT UP.
They are on constant as in not flashing if that makes any difference
2) prewash
3) wash LIT UP
4) rinse LIT UP
5) rinsehold
6) spin
7) door open and underneath Service LIT UP.
They are on constant as in not flashing if that makes any difference
That indicates a heater issue.
Run a service test program (without laundry) & see what error code that throws up.
Switch on & close the door. Select the first available position on the rotary program selector to the left of the OFF position (usually DRAIN or SPIN).
Push the reset button 4 times within 5 seconds to activate the service test.
If the test program doesn't start make sure that the pcb is reset (by: starting a drain cycle and then reset it). Then repeat the above instructions again.
Post the LED status when the fault comes up.
Run a service test program (without laundry) & see what error code that throws up.
Switch on & close the door. Select the first available position on the rotary program selector to the left of the OFF position (usually DRAIN or SPIN).
Push the reset button 4 times within 5 seconds to activate the service test.
If the test program doesn't start make sure that the pcb is reset (by: starting a drain cycle and then reset it). Then repeat the above instructions again.
Post the LED status when the fault comes up.
Pull the plug. Take off the rear cover & remove the two heater cables from the element at the bottom of the tub. Insulate both spade ends with electrical tape & tie them out of the way of moving parts. Re-try a wash cycle & report back.
Well did that, The heater has a continuity of 29-30 ohms across terminals, and greater than 1kohm to earth. (I can put a proper resistance meter across if required). The machine ran for about 5 sec but now only the wash (3rd from left) and service leds now lit, same on the service diagnosis program.
Many Thanks
Many Thanks
Every time you start a new wash cycle the pump will run for a little while regardless if there is water in or not, this is quite normal
At 25 to 30 ohms the element resistance is ok. But when you say the heater is 1kohm to earth was that measured with a 500v megger or a multimeter? The reason I ask is that first error you got (F12) points towards a low IR value on the heater (which often causes the pcb to act up). However when you disconnect the heater that error should disappear & a new one take its place. Which it did & correctly showed the new fault (F08, (O/C element). However with the heater out of circuit it should still run a program. But as it won't register the water getting up to temperature it would tend to just wash into infinity. Since that didn't happen I think I would suspect a motor issue even though it doesn't show a motor error code. Badly worn brushes can throw up all kinds of odd symptoms so I would check that first. If the brushes are ok I think would suspect a faulty pcb.
At 25 to 30 ohms the element resistance is ok. But when you say the heater is 1kohm to earth was that measured with a 500v megger or a multimeter? The reason I ask is that first error you got (F12) points towards a low IR value on the heater (which often causes the pcb to act up). However when you disconnect the heater that error should disappear & a new one take its place. Which it did & correctly showed the new fault (F08, (O/C element). However with the heater out of circuit it should still run a program. But as it won't register the water getting up to temperature it would tend to just wash into infinity. Since that didn't happen I think I would suspect a motor issue even though it doesn't show a motor error code. Badly worn brushes can throw up all kinds of odd symptoms so I would check that first. If the brushes are ok I think would suspect a faulty pcb.
Many thanks for the info...the meter I used was a fluke t600 (good multimeter) I didn't want to Zap with a proper insulation tester without sayso 'cos of frying something. As I've said before the washer seems to stop as soon as rotation is required so will check out motor tomorrow
Again many thanks
Again many thanks
You don't need to worry about megger testing an element. Whirlpool stipulate a minimum IR value of 10Mohm @ 500v DC (with water in the tub!). That aside I think the initial error code was a red herring. Hope it's only brushes 
Nope the brushes have a good 15-18mm travel in them yet. I continuity tested between the brushes and about 10ohm with full rotation of the armature. also tested between the two reds that go to the end of the armature and got 74ohm if that helps. BUT.....how easy is it tot get the motor off!!! .
Really I don't understand motors much, especially reversible ones.
.Really I don't understand motors much, especially reversible ones.
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