Whirlpool AWO/R205 washer

[zipper]

According to the manufacturer at 20C you should get the following values:
Stator winding (full field) 2.07 Ω
Stator winding (tapped field) 1.32 Ω
Armature (across the brushes) 2.00 Ω
Tacho generator 68,7 Ω
The motor also has an internal overload device (klixon).
This is a simple universal series motor (can run on AC or DC). The armature is always connected in series with the stator winding (on wash & spin) but it uses different configurations of the stator winding depending on if it is washing or spinning. It changes direction by reversing the armature circuit in relation to the stator via a reversing relay on the pcb. If the brushes have good contact with the commutator I don't know why you would be reading 10ohm across the brushes when the manufacturer states it should be two? The motor is mounted on 4 plastic pegs on the tub. To get it off remove the back plate, remove the motor connection plug & earth, remove the two securing bolts, then lever the motor towards you (off the pegs). It is very quick & easy to do. Rule of thumb (providing you don't have equipment to test the motor) if the brushes are good it & you can't see obvious signs of damage to the commutator then it usually ends up being a pcb problem. I would remove the pcb & visually check it for damage.

 

[cozycats]

The smiley was cos the motor was so easy to remove , but am now stck as to the pcb, I assume it is an integral part of the control panel but can't see how to remove it..I've taken out two bolts on the top and three screws around the soap drawer. Possibly just afraid to use some brute force. Also what am I looking for?? Also is this really worth messing around with any further as it looks like the pcb will be about £150. A new machine? about £265

 

[zipper]

The pcb is clipped into the control panel. Once lid is off & the screws are out look behind the control panel at the far right side, there should be a plastic clip (which is part of the control panel). It secures the fascia to the frame. Release the clip & the panel should come off easily. Before you remove the pcb turn the program selector to 0. When refitting the pcb make sure you hold the selector in the 0 position so you don't damage the interface. Or you could remove the selector switch altogether once the fascia is off, then refit it last to avoid possible damage. Whirlpool control panels, buttons, & pcb's are made of very flimsy plastic & are easily broken. I don't know how much time & effort you want to use on this, you'll have to decide that yourself. Maybe you ought speak to these people & send in the pcb for testing, it is a cheaper option http://www.emwelec.co.uk/ Or simply buy a new washer.

 

[cozycats]

Well..... got the pcb out. Googled the part number and found 2 places that sell it at £34.99...or would if it was in stock. The cheapest price otherwise seemed to be £141
The board was pretty 'sooty' so with the possibility of saving more than a couple of quid I washed it and stuck it back!
The machine has just completed it's 4th load without any hiccups at all!!
Many thanks for your help and I'll post again when this miracle dies