Wiring an outside light

[jnix2]

(this is a followup to my post here //www.diynot.com/diy/threads/wiring-a-double-2-way-light-switch.441970/ - I've now decided to replace the whole outside light)

Complete novice here.
For starters - I've turned off all lights at the fusebox, and checked there's no current,

I'm replacing an outside PIR light. The old one had connectors for 3 wires - and the earth was disconnected and folded over. The new light only has connections for Live and Neutral. But the the neutral connection also has a black wire coming from it (the instructions don't mention it):

The cable coming out of the wall has 4 wires - grey (with blue sleeve), black (with brown sleeve), brown and yellow/green.

So...how do I wire it up? From the (very helpful) answers to my previous post, I'm thinking the black wire (with brown sleeve) is an override for the PIR.

And for any wires which aren't connected (eg the earth), what's the safest way to terminate them?

 

[ericmark]

I would guess original had On/PIR/Off option, but pictures don't give information required. You need the circuit diagram for light and switch and likely once you have that it will become obvious how to connect. Other than that it down to tracing and testing not really something one can do by remote.

 

[jnix2]

I would guess original had On/PIR/Off option, but pictures don't give information required. You need the circuit diagram for light and switch and likely once you have that it will become obvious how to connect. Other than that it down to tracing and testing not really something one can do by remote.

That's right - the old one had the option to override the PIR and have the light permanently on (by switching on/off/on quickly). The new one doesn't have that function.

I don't have circuit diagrams. The light wiring instructions simply say "connect the brown to the terminal block L mark, connect the blue to the terminal block N mark".

The wall switch is a double - one switch is a two way for the hall lights, the other is for the outside light. Here's the wall switch:

As per my other thread, the black (with brown sleeve) which is apparently the override isn't connected to the switch.

 

[ericmark]

Then likely brown and grey are only wires required. But we are guessing only you can see what is required.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Your brown will likely be the live connection, grey sleeved blue the neutral and obviously the earth will need termining if required by the MI.
The spare black sleeved brown, should either be disconnected or terminated safely in to a separate connector.

 

[jnix2]

Now I'm really confused. As mentioned, the black (with brown sleeve) isn't connected to the switch, and I haven't connected it in the light. However when I test it there's current in it - how can that be?

That aside, I've connected brown and grey (blue sleeve) in the light - and the light stays on continually when the switch is on! Which was the original problem on the other thread which was put down to a faulty PIR.

I think I'm going to have to admit defeat and get a professional in.

 

[AndyPRK]

I wouldn't get a professional just yet.

Are you allowning five minutes for this thing the settle down ? They all come on by default at first.

Also don't keep turning the power off/on as that can put them in an always on mode.

The brown will be getting power from the other wire which is in the L1 terminal.

Do you have a link to online instructions for this new light you purchased ?

 

[Taylortwocities]

when I test it there's current in it - how can that be?

First of all, you would be testing for VOLTAGE, not CURRENT. You only get current when something is energised (ie switched on).

Second of all, how are you testing it? what with are you doing the test and between what and what.
If you are using a neon tester, or one of those contactless indicator devices then please put it in your pocket and leave it there!
You need a two-probe tester, or a multimeter.