Hi all. I have a wood burning stove connected to my hot water cylinder on gravity When the fire is at full heat the coil cant get rid of the heat quick enough, therefor I switch on the pumped central heating to get rid of the heat. Is there a sensor I could fit to the pipework to switch the pump on automatically? Its ok if Im home but Im a bit worried if Im not , dont want a big boom! Any thoughts? Cheers
wood burning stove/w back boiler
- Thread starter tomkelly
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Can you elaborate a little further ? thanks
Hi Norcon thanks for the reply but a little too technical for me! 
cheers
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Pipe stats certainly would do this and your system would be fine most of the time, but with solid fuel controls you should also ask "what happens during a power cut - does it fail safe?"
A thing that may or may not be useful somewhere in your system is a Normally Open 2 port valve. The usual motorised valve is closed at rest, power to the motor opens it up. A NO valve is the other way round, so in a power cut will be open. Eg A low limit stat to wake the system up when you light a fire, goes to a cylinder high limit stat which keeps the NO valve closed. Outtage or high temperature opens up an extension of the gravity circuit to a heat dump radiator.
The other thing to check if you're going to be boiling cylinders of water is that the header tanks are up to it - bases needs to be supported properly if plastic as there is a risk of it deforming when it fills with hot water. Feed and vent should be in copper, check the overflow works (wouldn't rely on push fit) and is not going to spew boiling water on anybody passing outside.
Final thing to say is that a vented cylinder boiling can sound horrendous but it's not likely to "boom" in the sense that it's vented so the pressure isn't going to build and build.
A thing that may or may not be useful somewhere in your system is a Normally Open 2 port valve. The usual motorised valve is closed at rest, power to the motor opens it up. A NO valve is the other way round, so in a power cut will be open. Eg A low limit stat to wake the system up when you light a fire, goes to a cylinder high limit stat which keeps the NO valve closed. Outtage or high temperature opens up an extension of the gravity circuit to a heat dump radiator.
The other thing to check if you're going to be boiling cylinders of water is that the header tanks are up to it - bases needs to be supported properly if plastic as there is a risk of it deforming when it fills with hot water. Feed and vent should be in copper, check the overflow works (wouldn't rely on push fit) and is not going to spew boiling water on anybody passing outside.
Final thing to say is that a vented cylinder boiling can sound horrendous but it's not likely to "boom" in the sense that it's vented so the pressure isn't going to build and build.
Cheers. that sounds good. Ill give it a try. Ive inheritated this diy system aand plan to install a thermal store with solar ect. next year its the wife and kids that Im worried about! Thanks for your advice!
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