Worcester 28cdi + Drayton +rf wireless Thermostat

[madbikerchap]

Hi,
I'm hoping you can solve my wiring problem. Just bought a Drayton +2RF wireless Thermostat which I am trying to fit to my existing Worcester 28cdi combi boiler.
The bolier was original fitted with a 24hr clock/timer, on/auto/off with three wires which i have now disconnected from the boiler. I have tried to wire the new wireless thermostat to the instructions. The wireless controller is connecting to the receiver, the red light flashes saying they are communicating & the boiler fires up. However, I find when I no longer need to heat the room up, by switching the controller completely off, the pump continues to run on, & heating as required ( with the old clock/timer, the pump ran on , but then it stops completely) I have turned off the freeze protection in the clock
The boiler has four connections NS / LS / LR / Spare
The wireless unit has N L 1(common) 2(heating satisfied or call for cooling) 3(Call for heat)
I have wired it as follows: N to Neutral (switched 3A)
L to Live (switched 3A)
1 loops 2
2 loops 3
1 to LR
3 to LS
Firstly I need to know if I have wired this correctly
Secondly do I need to wire up the original 24hr clock to switch off the pump completely and if so, how?
hope this makes sense
Thanks

 

[picasso]

you have connected the LS and LR terminals wrong, C in the drayton to LS on boiler strip and 3 in the drayton to LR, the original programmer does not have to be connected and the stat should work ok.

 

[madbikerchap]

I've changed over the wires, so now 1(common) is going to LS on the boiler & 3 is going to LR on the boiler. This has made no difference, When I totally turn off the room thermostat, the Boiler continues to run & still heating up. The only way I can switch the boiler off, is to turn down the water Temp on the boiler dial.
The wireless receiver, 1, 2 & 3 are all connected via loops, do I need to disconnect any off these for it to work properly?
As an experiment, I connected up the old 24hr clock back to the boiler along with the new wireless unit. I was able to use the auto/on/off switch to toatlly turn off the boiler.This was wired as follows:

From the old Clock
White to NS
Brown to LS
Grey to Spare

From The wireless Unit
3 to Spare
1 to LR

This way, i could use the old clock to switch off

Thanks[/b]

 

[picasso]

sorry meant to ask about the loops, you only need 4 connection from the boiler to the reciever, take off the loops, what did you think they were doing?

 

[madbikerchap]

You deserve a beer on me LOL ......... Loops removed, Problem Solved, now fully working.
No idea what I was thinking, Maybe it's Old age, but the diagram that came with it, clearly shows as loops!!!!!!!! Maybe I misread the diagram, but I'm usually good with diagrams, hummmph
Thank you very much for your help, and so quick too, now I can get the heating on............... brrrrrrrrrr

 

[dooner02]

hi mad biker chap.
You've deffo read the diagram wrong. your loops are simply a standard symbol for a single pole switch which is contained within the receiver. I have fitted this stat to my worcester 28cdi. I have piggy backed the 230v inputs off the boilers mains connector just to the left of the stat connector as the boiler runs off a switched 3A fused spur.

I assume this is the norm if not somebody please let me know!