Getting them back may be an issue as the repair they made was 6 days inside the warranty period, now its expired
Ring up and say that this problem appeared within a few days of the repair that they carried out. You have nothing to lose by asking them. It's possible that the guy who replaced it didnt check why the PCB had blown.
Here's something of interest from the
Supply of Goods and Services Act 1982 Fact Sheet
Q8. The supplier says the guarantee has expired and he has no obligation to deal with the problem. Is he right?
A guarantee cannot exonerate the supplier from his statutory obligations and so the fact that one has been given and has expired is irrelevant to his obligations to the consumer.
It also states
Any goods supplied in the course of the service must be as described, of satisfactory quality and fit for their purpose. If they are not the consumer is entitled to a repair, replacement or compensation.
Here is another bit that you may find helpful
If the buyer returns the goods as not conforming to contract, and asks for his money back within a reasonable time, he may decide/be persuaded to let the retailer make an attempt at repair. After he had given the retailer a reasonable time to complete this,
with no success, he could fall back on requiring the return of the price paid. This might be because the repair was not carried out promptly enough or because it was not repaired to an adequate standard.
I'm not trying to get you to set a legal precedent here but the fact that the problem has arisen within 3 weeks of a repair should help you to get them back to sort the problem out. We are working on the edge of the above legislation but a polite yet assertive phone call could yield results. As an ISO 9001 company consumer support should be high on their agenda.
Did the Ravenheat guy do anything else while he was there, such as alter the restrictor ring? They should be at 90º to the flue bend according to Ravenheat. I altered one so that it was last week and got a call 4 days later and ended up putting it back how it was! Lesson learnt.
Take the red tube off at the APS end and blow hard through it. This
should clear any blockage in the pipe or venturi.
Although the white pipe is short; a blockage or kink here can also affect things. Keep the end of this pipe away from the flue so that it can detect the different pressure.
Is your fan turning freely? Is it noisy - buzzing or rattly?
What is the resistance across its terminals?
Are the fan wires ok?
Are the plugs pushed on to the board properly and making a good connection?
Is your flue intact and unblocked?
Simply altering the restrictor ring to the place
where it works could be the answer to your problem.
The APS lets the PCB know that the fan is working and that there is adequate flow of air through the boiler so that the ignition process can continue.
I kept my finger over the end of the pipe and it remained working for about 10 minutes.
Your APS could still be sticky but this proves that the diaphragm is intact. So long as this wasn't a fluke you have discovered the symptom and the cause isn't too far away.
BTW if you do try a repair meanwhile and do something wrong then you could lose your rights to redress under the law.
