Wall light back box
- Thread starter elfreddo
- Start date
Sponsored Links
If the connections can all be made neatly inside the body of the wall light, and it is designed to be thus, no back box is needed. Otherwise, sadly, some chisel work will be needed, and a back box would be the right object to use- it can then be blanked later if the light is removed.
Depends on the design of the light - if in doubt the makers instructions should say, but probably don't make it very clear.
Obviously it is possible to not have a back box, and probably that poses little risk, but if you are not following best practice, at a later date soemone may get upset if it goes wrong.
M
Depends on the design of the light - if in doubt the makers instructions should say, but probably don't make it very clear.
Obviously it is possible to not have a back box, and probably that poses little risk, but if you are not following best practice, at a later date soemone may get upset if it goes wrong.
M
Thanks for the speedy reply
My problem is that the cables for the W/lights are usually put in as a 1st fix weeks before the 2nd fix is completed, so i have no idea to the design
of the light fitting.
So as you suggested back boxes should be used.
Bog standard square 16/25mm deep galv?
Cheers
My problem is that the cables for the W/lights are usually put in as a 1st fix weeks before the 2nd fix is completed, so i have no idea to the design
of the light fitting.
So as you suggested back boxes should be used.
Bog standard square 16/25mm deep galv?
Cheers
There's an awful lot of wall lights on the market that are far too small to cover up a standard box...
Sponsored Links
I don't think I've ever seen a wall light that couldn't accommodate the terminal blocks inside the body. In fact, many have locating prongs for said terminal blocks, which are often supplied with the fitting. Just install the cabling where you need it to be.
As b-a-s has said you'll find it difficult to cover a normal square back box, but you might consider using a besa box. The bushed M4 holes may, in fact, be in the right place for the mounting plate of your lights. It would also give you a neat way of blanking off the lighting point if not used in the future.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MT20BXL.html
As b-a-s has said you'll find it difficult to cover a normal square back box, but you might consider using a besa box. The bushed M4 holes may, in fact, be in the right place for the mounting plate of your lights. It would also give you a neat way of blanking off the lighting point if not used in the future.
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MT20BXL.html
Or they may not. I think it's basically risky to make those decisions without knowing what needs to be mounted. I once had to use 35mm film canisters sunk into the walls to accommodate choc-block and leave me with some wall to drill & plug.dingbat said:
I've got some wall lights to fit in the bathroom:
The plate that goes against the wall is only 50mm dia - less than the fixing centres of the cover for a BESA box, let alone the box itself, and its fixing centres are 35mm....
B
breezer
hmm............... rearange these words:
bathroom, wall light, part p, neon tester screwdiver
bathroom, wall light, part p, neon tester screwdiver
Where naked wet people gather.breezer said:
Sadly one at a time these days.
None in Zones 0 or 1, and they are IP44 rated.
Irrelevant, as the work was started before Dec 31, and will be finished before April 1, or long before then I will cease posting here and the boys in blue will be double digging my garden, as SWWNO looks on, steely-eyed.
I think I've got one somewhere - it's just the right size for small choc-block and the screws inside 13A plugs...neon tester screwdiver
But I don't want to talk about screwdrivers - I wish you hadn't mentioned it, as yesterday I broke the end off one of my VDE ones
Hmm in the absence of knowing what the lights are, a cable hanging out of the wall is more easily made into a bigger hole, than a hole too large filled in nicely.
I'd like to change my mind, and concur with the rest, probably better to use either the smallest possible box, or leave backboxes in the van until after the plasterer has been, on the off chance you may not need it at all.
- bit awkward when the wall lights aren't there to be looked at yet.
I have seen those where there is no room behind for a connection of any kind.
I'd like to change my mind, and concur with the rest, probably better to use either the smallest possible box, or leave backboxes in the van until after the plasterer has been, on the off chance you may not need it at all.
- bit awkward when the wall lights aren't there to be looked at yet.
I have seen those where there is no room behind for a connection of any kind.
Luminaires are often a triumph of styling over practicality...mapj1 said:
The wall-lights I'm fitting have 2 single bits of choc-block that will push into the horizontal tube:
in tandem, not parallel, but it's a tight squeeze, and there isn't room to stuff much cable in there, particularly solid core. I'm so glad I have the cables running in conduit, so that I can pull a decent amount out of the wall to work on, and then have a helper pull the excess back as I bring the fitting towards the wall. Anybody trying to fit these to the end of a plastered in cable would be cursing at the tiny amount they had to work with.
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
Sponsored Links
