Recent content by Deluks

Nice of the plasterer to empty his bucket in your trench. The damp proof course should really be 2 bricks high, you might have to dig out some more, any french drain effort should be dug to below your concrete slab. And the slab should not protrude beyond the brickwork unless you have a...

Shed roofs are rarely perfectly symmetrical, doing it this way reduces wrinkles.

Do both sides separately then glue a strip over the ridge.

It won't notice, the eye will be drawn to the pretty flowers.

Looking at JohnD's graph, it appears that things were going in the right direction until new Labour got in. 'Things can only get better' ...if you own property.

Location? I have a tower like this, a few bits could do with being replaced due to rust.

Trellis. Or 3/4 height panel with a trellis on top. To add to the previous answers, putting screws through the fence edge battens, from one side to the other, helps reduces the panels being loosened, by wind pulling the nails out.

Ok, having stuck my head in the cupboard and had a fiddle, the pump is still circulating and the spindle turns freely. So it's the valve (again) But given the state of it, I will be looking to replace it in the near future, so the above questions still stand. Also, Is it worth picking up a...

The other 'dumb' question I should have asked. Does the fact that hot water is getting from the boiler into the hot water tank mean that the pump definitely hasn't failed? Or can the hot water easily siphon up past a pump that isn't circulating and keep the tank hot.

Radiators not getting hot, hot water still ok. Y plan, f&e tank etc 3 bed semi, 7 rads. The 3 way valve was completely changed in 2016, I think it's also had a new head on it since then. (If not I've got a spare knocking about) So it might be the valve, but having had a look at the...

The 30 - 50cm gap seems excessive, you will lose a lot of space that way. Although I see that you've already started, so you are where you are. Good practice is to completely fill the air gap with insulation, the densest you can find, which is usually rockwool slab. The downside to this is...

Leave the gaps for airflow, cover with a square wire mesh to keep rats out. Membrane and white chippings on the exposed soil. Paint the lower board.

5 bags ballast to 1 bag cement.

15mm probably won't cut it, you really need to tile onto 18mm ply. You might be able to lay ply on battens between the joists, then lay a cement based tile backer board over the lot, then your tiles. Save you a few mm.

I did a similar sized slab last year. 1 bulk bag of ballast and 6 small bags. 6 bags cement. Only get the bulk bag if you've got a wheelbarrow, but it does work out cheaper. (Maybe not if you need to buy a barrow, but job will be easier with a barrow, and you'll need a mixer)