45 Amp shower pull cord switch life expectancy.

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Hi all, this is a question regarding my sons 45 Amp pull cord switch located inside his bathroom.
We are now on our 3rd switch in three years. The original one that was already in his flat lasted 18 months, this was already in when he and his girlfriend moved in. When it packed in I got my friend who is a qualified electrician to replace it for me, we managed to get into his loft to release more cable down into the bathroom, it was cut back to clean wire and a new one fitted, this lasted a year or so and the same wire had blackened and burnt out again. Its always the Black Neutral Supply cable that keeps going.
I then replaced it myself with another 45Amp switch, made sure all the connections were as tight as possible without stripping the brass connections, got my friend to double check it and again this only lasted a year before the same thing happened. I have now fitted a 50Amp MK switch to see if this helps.
Now here is my main question, I just asked my son how long he takes in the shower, his answer is a whopping 15 to 20 minutes then his girlfriend has a 20 minute shower straight after so its constantly under load, this is every day, we are talking 30-40 mins. I know these swtches can get warm so my theory is its not getting a chance to cool down and 30-40 minutes on every day means its not getting warm, its getting hot although Ive not felt it after 40 mins use. Im thinking its is going to burn it out eventually.
Am I talking a load of bull or is this too long. Ive told him to cut the shower time down to 5 minutes each. Any ideas if this could be the problem or is there an underlying fault elsewhere.
Thanks in advance everyone.
Steve.
 
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Multi stranded core cable will "settle" (relax) within the connection. Should really be periodically tested for tightness.

When we bung a shower circuit in, we tighten the connections up early in the day and re-tighten at end of the day. Luckily we may be there doing other jobs so the shower circuit will be first (or close to) on the list of "things to do".

I'm sure I've seen shower switches by "Click" that have two screws per terminal. Much better idea in my mind!!
 
Wow, first thanks for the rapid reply Scoby_ Beasley. This did cross my mind as well but I thought it was that damn tight it wouldn`t move. I suppose if it gets warm, cools, gets warm cools constantly its expanding, contracting as well. I will give it a fresh tightening up this weekend, I cant get in before then.
Many thanks for your answer.
Steve.
 
Just back from store cupboard. Yup. The "round" Click Mode shower pull has two screws per terminal. And I'm sure the square ones do as well.

And is it the neutral that keeps burning out??
 
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I have an MK shower switch which has had similar, if not longer, duty cycles than that for nearly 8 years with a 10.8kW shower, no problems.

An X amp switch should, in the absence of maker's duty-cycle info to the contrary, be able to pass X amps indefinitely.

Is it recessed?

Covered with insulation?

What size is the cable?

After installing the switches, did you go back the next day, and then again about a week after that and re-tighten?
 
Yeah its always the neutral wire.
The last switch did have 2 screws per connection and that failed after a year, it was from B&Q, I was advised to buy MK as they are better quality but it only has one screw per connection, I bought it from Screwfix last week. So now its a MK Pull cord with the red neon light and it also has like a roller on show that shows on off but its only got 1 screw per terminal.
Would the length of shower affect it at all?
Steve
 
Thanks for your reply also.
No Ive never retightened them but will do asap now.
Its not recessed, its in a box that sits into the bathroom, its about 3"x3"x2" deep.
There is no lagging above the switch, we just removed some floor boards in his loft and could easily see the cables.
As for wire size Im not sure but my friend who is a manager of a largish oil company in Aberdeen and fully qualified electrician did it the first time and he didn`t mention the wire was too small. He would have told me straight away if he had any concerns.
Steve.
 
Before screwing up the cover plate I always double check the tightness of the terminals. What I mean is the wires are all arranged in position, and won't have to be moved or disturbed; so I can give a final tighten before screwing the front plate back up.

I'm sure cheap makes of these switches make a difference too - so you have done right to fit an MK one.

All blackened copper needs cutting off and stripping back to clean copper.

All this is unfortunately a common problem, so any slack cable above will always be helpful.

The Crabtree switches are very good too, but are circular and quite a different design from the regular square ones.
 
Do your son use the pull switch as the ON-OFF switch leaving the switch on the shower at ON ?.

Switching the pull switch under load ( when the shower itself is switched on ) can shorten the life of the switch as most are designed as isolators and not all are designed for frequent use as an ON-OFF switch.
 
All this is unfortunately a common problem, so any slack cable above will always be helpful.
So will cutting a large hole in the back of the pattress (boxing it all in above the ceiling for safety) so that the cables can move out of the way comfortably without having to scrunch up.
 
Personally I'll fit a din rail mount enclosure on the wall outside the bathroom, and put a standard 100amp main switch inside it as a shower isolator, those crappy pullcords are not really up to the job - you will be lucky to get one year's reasonable daily use out of one on average! :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
 
Interestingly enough, 50 amp WALL switches for showers don't seem to burn out as often as pull switches.

(Unless there's a lot less wall switches.)
 

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