Best way to recess plug sockets?

In case anyone should chance on this topic in the future when pondering this question, the sheds sell drilling jigs which allow you to stitch-drill the holes around the edges, and diagonally across two corners, for 1- and 2-gang boxes (1 jig does both). They have mounting holes where you first screw them to the wall, and you can then drill rows of holes far straighter and closer together than you could ever hope to achieve by hand.

Once done a few blows with a bolster and club hammer removes the brick, and you're left with a hole so neat that no filling is necessary around the back box.

For a DIYer with only a few holes to sink they are ideal, but for a pro, or for anyone with lots to do they're a bit time consuming.

Can't find a picture of one, but this is the result they achieve:

img0555nk4.jpg
 
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Neat, can the tool also be used to deepen an existing hole. The backboxes in this house are all 16mm, I am installing some new switches, which although they fit in the 16mm, they are too tight if the bodger before left the fixing screw head too far out.
 
Should be able to - you'd need longer screws to hold it in place, but the edges of it will extend beyond the edges of the hole, so it will sit there OK.
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Has anybody ever used one of those sinkers that's a square plate covered in sharp points, so it's not like a normal box sinker that tries to cut the edges of the hole - it just pulverises the wall? Needs a hefty SDS Max drill...
 
Should be able to - you'd need longer screws to hold it in place, but the edges of it will extend beyond the edges of the hole, so it will sit there OK.
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Has anybody ever used one of those sinkers that's a square plate covered in sharp points, so it's not like a normal box sinker that tries to cut the edges of the hole - it just pulverises the wall? Needs a hefty SDS Max drill...

Yes, I've got one - works ok in breeze block etc but useless in decent brick.
I gave up and went back to the drill & chisel method, which is quicker.
 
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In case anyone should chance on this topic in the future when pondering this question, the sheds sell drilling jigs which allow you to stitch-drill the holes around the edges, and diagonally across two corners, for 1- and 2-gang boxes (1 jig does both). They have mounting holes where you first screw them to the wall, and you can then drill rows of holes far straighter and closer together than you could ever hope to achieve by hand.

Apologies for dragging up an old thread, but the jig that ban-all-sheds talked about sounds like exactly what I need. However I can't seem to find it anywhere. Can you give me any more clues as to where I might find one?

Thanks
Chris
 
Apologies for dragging up an old thread, but the jig that ban-all-sheds talked about sounds like exactly what I need. However I can't seem to find it anywhere. Can you give me any more clues as to where I might find one?
Strangely, I came across mine in the loft a couple of weeks ago. I need to don my thermals and get up there again this weekend to put the Christmas baubles away, so I'll see if it has a makers name on it.
 
Apologies for dragging up an old thread, but the jig that ban-all-sheds talked about sounds like exactly what I need. However I can't seem to find it anywhere. Can you give me any more clues as to where I might find one?

Thanks
Chris

Don't really need one, mark around the box with a pencil then stitch drill all the way round, making sure you do the four corners which'll help you do a neater job then drill the centre to soften it.

I too have tried the imfamous armeg EBS, which is okay in consistent medium materials with no joints. Too soft and it crumbles too far (making good), too hard forget it, joints will throw it askew too. Stitch drill = dam near perfect nearly every time. (except in a hard render/soft brick wall when you're 95% done with a neat chop then a 18" section of render drops off at the last moment :mad:
 
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That's the fella.

Apart from the initial drilling & plugging of the two holes to screw it to the wall it doesn't take any extra time to use if you're going to stitch drill anyway, but it does guarantee that your holes will all be in exactly the right places, all in a straight line, all the same depth etc.

And it stops you giving into the temptation to try and use your masonry drill like some kind of router to speed things up - yes, you know who you are.
 
And it stops you giving into the temptation to try and use your masonry drill like some kind of router to speed things up - yes, you know who you are.

Done that one a few times :oops: ... admittedly I was making a much bigger hole than just a recess for a S/O though
 

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