Build your own garage door - hanger style

I thought that the relatively large movement (say 3'), would make hydraulics too expensive. You also need a pump and motor to get your pressure and a sump. These 'orrible winches, they are available and are moderately high torque and cheap, can't say much more then that. Most smallish electric motors ( both AC and DC) are really high speed and low torque, unless some one can think of one that has a 100 : 1 gearbox already built in it*. One possibility that I have thought about using for a different job is the power steering rack/pump and kit from a car. Power the pump from an electric motor and use a valve arrangement to get the oil to turn the hydraulic motor, still only about 9" of movement though.
Frank
* you could always use the winch /motor assy. built for a powered up and over garage door. :)
 
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Well yes, unfortunately hydraulics are a bit pricey (which in part explains the cost of some of the commercial offerings) - which would probably rule them out. But they have certain advantages that are hard to replicate with other methods.

You'll find that electric winches are geared down to match the high-speed low-torque motor to the low-speed high-torque requirement. But in selecting the winch, you need to calculate the required line pull, speed required, and amount of rope to be would in - and select accordingly. There's probably an iterative process here - calculate the values you think you need, look at the spec sheets, then see if you can revise the layout (eg switching from single line to double line pull to suit a higher speed, lower pull winch) to suit what's available.

A drive for an up-over-door won't work. They are designed to take the counterbalanced load of certain types of door - no chance of them working one of these.

Be aware that the specs for a winch are not simple. You will see two values quoted (line speed & pull capacity) but these are only two from a selection of numbers ! Typically the suppliers will quote "first layer" values - ie what happens when you are winding the first layer onto the drum. When the first layer is full, the effective diameter of the drum increases because you are now winding on top of the first layer of cable - so speed increases and pull decreases. Repeat for second layer and so on. All assuming the cable lays up neatly which it often doesn't.
On that last bit - the capacity of the drum is markedly different for well laid up and random winding of the cable. Forcing a good layup of the cable is hard and often need an active cable guide to position the wire as it's wound up. If the line pull is dead straight then it may do it on it's own ...

For an AC motor I suspect the speed isn't greatly affected by load, but for the DC winches I'm more familiar with there is also a huge variation of speed with load. Ie they run "quite fast" with no load, but as the slack is taken up, the speed drops off considerably. For these, line speed is often quoted under no load - which isn't very useful.

Obviously, the figures you get will depend on how good the seller is. If it's an outfit that prides itself on support etc, then you'll get full details (and possibly graphs). If it's one that just wants to shift boxes, you just get the two numbers quoted (which will be the best ones) and it's up to you to figure out the rest.

But with a winch, there is still the issue of how to deal with a cable failure.
I suppose you could rig up some form of damper (one each side) ? Cable (separate from winch) from bottom of door, over pulley, down to plunger set in a tube. Plunger is weighted (could form the counterweight already mentioned by the OP) to make it sink in some oil or water, had a non-return valve to let it sink (could be simply a disk sat on top of the plunger which has holes in it), but when the door is lowering, the oil or water must go through a smaller orifice and will thus control the speed of a runaway door.
Or some form of mechanical safety brake as previously described.
 
Wow - thanks for all the insight guys. A lot to think about here which I cant do at work. Gonna have to digest this later in the week when I have some decent time available. Tonight I am plastering one of my bedroom ceilings so not much time.

This is all getting rather complicated. Hydraulics seem to be the best option, but too expensive. The winch is maybe too simplistic and risky. Needs a lot of thought.

My Mrs turned round to me and said she liked this glass sectional design this would mean going back to getting something manufactured, but I cant seem to see many places that do them. Sounds like it would be costly too!
 
just a thought but i wouldn't have windows in the doors, garages are bad enough already for being broken into even without being able to look in first and see motorcycles etc
if you need light how about a skylight in the roof?

The windows would be blanked out with a satin/frosted finish. This garage is part of the house (townhouse) so there are two stories and a roof above it :)
 
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My Mrs turned round to me and said she liked this glass sectional design ...
If it's what I think it is, then it's "just" a posh roller shutter door. When open it takes as much roof/ceiling space as the opening it fills.
<has a quick search>
Ah yes, here's the supplier's page - US $90 - 140 / Square Meter FOB

There will be people doing that sort of thing retail over here, but you might need to shop around a bit.
 
My Mrs turned round to me and said she liked this glass sectional design ...
If it's what I think it is, then it's "just" a posh roller shutter door. When open it takes as much roof/ceiling space as the opening it fills.
<has a quick search>
Ah yes, here's the supplier's page - US $90 - 140 / Square Meter FOB

There will be people doing that sort of thing retail over here, but you might need to shop around a bit.

That is exactly what it is. The downside is the loss of space on the ceiling, but at least I wont lose too much wall space as well. I was also thinking that if I keep the opening a bit lower then the tracks would also be equally low allowing me to use the space above the tracks for some storage. It isnt ideal and I would have to ensure that nothing accidentally slips down and jams the door, but it could be the lesser of many evils. Now I just need to source a cost. In the UK most firms seems to avoid anything non-standard!
 
Alternatively - I guess I could go the opposite way, and make the opening as high as possible, thus allowing me to create a false ceiling or at least some form of strong supports to hang stuff from going underneath it. So long as it is accessible if there is an issue with the tracks then I should be ok.

Maybe some long steel poles (scaffold type) across the width strongly secured into the brick wall on each side would give me reasonable strength to hang a couple of canoes, oars and such like :)
 

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