Cable routes

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Bedfordshire
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Hi Guys,
I have read through the 16thEd onsite guide (Fun not) to see if a ring main can be run horizontally around the room? and all it says on P53 is(no protection required) for Horizontally, vertically to an accessory box or within 150mm from angle formed by two walls or ceiling.
Does this mean that a cable can be routed from D/socket to the next D/Socket at 450mm from floor height or not?
I have not found anywhere that says you cannot? Or is it just (good practice) to run the cables up vertically from the first floor joists?
The walls are currently blockwork and brick and first-fix plumbing is done.

Cheers,
JC
 
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Since that is one of the safe zones it is perfectly acceptable to run the cables that way.A little unusual, as most sparkies wire the 'up and down' method, but more likely in a kitchen with a higher density of sockets.
 
Yes you can do it like this. It is simply less chasing, less oval tube etc if you pop up the sockets from below, especially in a room with only a few sockets.
 
I'm relatively new to domestic installations, and have mainly been installing in extensions - effectively new build first fix, and use the "horizontal" method quite a lot, as its a perfectly acceptable safe zone. As the pasterboard is then fitted by "dot and dab" afterwards I dont use any metal or plastic capping on the cables just clip direct to brick/block wall. Without wishing to hijack the post (I think the original question is answered) , does anyone see any advantage to using the capping at all, other than as a form of cable support where its difficult to get the clips to fix into soft blocks and you fix it with longer nails ? I doubt it leaves a channel reliable enough to pull new cables through in the future !
 
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I have clipped direct to walls for dot and dab in the past, but I do prefer to use oval conduit sunk in the wall slightly - On thermalite there is little excuse!

There was debate over wheather the bonding compound was harmful to cable - But I believe it is not.

The main reason for using any form of capping or containment at first fix is to protect the cable from damage while the wall is plastered (plasters tools etc). This is negated on dry lining IMO.
 
Thanks for your replies, :D
The reason I asked this is that the joists ends run into a 12m wall with 2 steels as well. There are 2 Rads going in as well and the run will be behind one of these. I will be chasing out but was only going to do this where the ensuite runs between the bedrooms and the bath in the ensuite would be along this wall and concealed and this be covered by the bathroom Zone rules. Another reason was that the cable run would be greatly increased, I have just measured the area upstairs which is 12x10m or 120Sq-M, so I will have two have two upstair ring mains anyway?

Another quickie pls, Is it ok to run/lay the cable along the inside of the steels and box in? (all the steel work will be earth bonded as well)

Cheers,
JC
 
JCBeds said:
concealed and this be covered by the bathroom Zone rules.

I don't understand what you mean by this?

Will there be a visible accesory in the ensuite to indicate the prescence of the cable?
 
Sorry RF,

I could have been explained a little better!

What i was trying to say is that the ring main cable would be concealed within the blockwork and covered by plaster and tiles in the ensuite, and the accessory boxes are only in bedroom 1 and 2.
This would make the cabling a little easier for me as below there are treble joists, studwork and lots of first fix plumbing.

Please correct me if this is not permitted as i have not started this part yet, and i do not want the building inspector to say "no good".
I am only doing the first fix myself, the second fix will be completed and certified by my sparky, it gives me some hands-on and saves a few quid as well.

Cheers,
JC
 
if there are no accessories to indicate the possible presence of a cable either vertically or horiontally from it then it is not acceptable to run cables in the wall..

mains cables should not be run at all through the bathroom if they do not terminate in there to fixed equipment ( ie shower cable, shaver point cable, lighting / fan cables are ok, and the cable to a flex out for a towel rail is ok provided the fused spur is outside the bathroom.. )
 
Hi Cooljack,

I was led to believe that;

"Providing that the space under the bath cannot be accessed without using tools (i.e. screwdriver etc), that space is considered to be 'out of scope'."

Would this be not true in the sense that the wall in mention is covered by the bath height "500mm" and boxed in making it not accessible without a screwdriver hence being out of scope and out of Zones 0 to 3 :?:
Appreciate comments please!

Cheers,
JC
 
Bathroom zones only relate to what level of protection a piece of electrical equipment requires to be sited there.

It does in no way relate the the running of concealed cables.
This is goverened only by the standard safe zone rules.
 
Thanks RF and Coljack,

Down from Bedroom1 sockets, through joists of ensuite and back up to sockets in Bedroom 2 then it is! ;)

Cheers,

JC
 
the ring main cable would be concealed within the blockwork and covered by plaster and tiles in the ensuite

this comment is what prompted my answer..

I would think that if the cable is surface mounted under the bath ( in suitable conduit or trunking for example ) , making it visible upon removing the bath then it's not buried and "safe zones" don't apply..
 
:?:
So, I could run this through the ensuite as long as the conduit runs the length of the ensuite (below the bath top) and is visible if the bath is removed?
Would 20mm PVC conduit or PVC trunking be allowed?
:rolleyes:
JC
 
Old thread I know and not the OP refers to 16th ed. Any changes to this in the 17th...?

Am wiring a timber frame house with a wall lining of plasterboard 38x63 battens then 13mm plasterboard and skim for the wiring zone which is pretty much 50mm below the surface.

As I don't need to chase anything out anyway the idea of running the ring main around rooms at socket height seems a simple and far more frugal method.

Only issue is external doors but could dive down or up from the last accessory to go around or use metal channel or just work on the basi that I have 50mm cover...

Any thoughts...?

(...be nice, first thread... ;) )

J
 

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