COOKER ELECTRICS

[ColJack]

After 4 pages of her demonstrating that not only was she utterly ignorant, she was so stupid that she didn't see that her complete inability to understand anything meant she shouldn't be doing it. To the extent that she chose a 3A cable to power a 28A appliance....

I know, but your post was rather vicious and seemd personal. rather than trying to explain that she'd be better off getting a professional in, it was like you were screaming at the wife trying to park in a tight space..

Advising him to move an accessory away from a hob isn't really spoonfeeding a partial rewire...

I refer you to parts 2 and 3 of your previous post..

He can't - he's got to move them...

genuinely not taking the mick, what reg ( building or otherwise)? I don't know it and would be interested in finding out since I'm doing mine soon..
as far as I know the minimum distance from a hob is only a guideline in one book or another

also, as we've yet to see a wide angle picture, we don't know if he can move the cooker away from the cooker switch so it's over a narrow counter top or filler strip..

Whether he moves it or not, adding an FCU is notifiable.

I thought it would classify under the replacing a damaged accessory since it's missing a front plate..and fusing the circuit down would be better than putting the igniter and clock on a 30A circuit?

oh well live and learn.. never had to use part P yet so not 100 percent on it.. ( being a mainly comercial / industrial for the past 10 or so years.. )

 

[BARCUD]

View media item 9211
Hello and good morning,

I hope you now have a pic of my new cooker.

What you see is a gas cooker that now needs connecting to the mains in order for the electrics (ignition e't'c') to work.

The switch you see at the back of the cooker has been there since before we moved in when a house extension was done. As far as I know it has never been used. The last cooker had battery operated ignition. I've tested where the feed comes from with my voltage detector and it comes in a straight line from ceiling to switch. I unscrewed the switch to get a look inside. It isn't usually hanging off like that !

What you can't see is another exposed plate (exposed ? why? I don't know !) This is a couple of inches off the skirting at the bottom right of the cooker. The feed for this comes from the cooker switch. Again I've detected that it travels in a horizontal line to the right outer edge of the cooker and then vertically down to the plate.

The proposed place for any switches is the door wall on the right hand side of the cooker. Just how, and what switches I need to use I'd like to ask you guys. But please remember that I'm not familiar with technical terms used by electricians.

many thanks, BARCUD

 

[ban-all-sheds]

do you think i just sit here in my undies waiting for posts to come in so I can feel usefull?

oh wait... yeah I do at the minute since I'm out of work...

If it's all the same to you I'd rather imagine sparkybird sitting there in her undies.

genuinely not taking the mick, what reg ( building or otherwise)?

It may only be a "guideline", but AFAIK the guidelines on gas hob zones come from BS6172, and are probably widely used by cooker/hob manufacturers to specify their clearance requirements.

Also with a gas hob there is a reasonable expectation of flames reaching almost to that position, so a socket there is, IMO, in contravention of 522.1.

Whether he moves it or not, adding an FCU is notifiable.

I thought it would classify under the replacing a damaged accessory since it's missing a front plate..and fusing the circuit down would be better than putting the igniter and clock on a 30A circuit?

Well - maybe "replacing any fixed electrical equipment" could be read to cover "swapping a cooker outlet plate for an FCU". But adding a 2nd would be notifiable.

 

[ColJack]

I never said add a second did I?

from your pic it's clear that you need to move the cooker switch...

you'll need a part P sparky or notify the LABC.. ( sparky will be cheaper )..


for your own personal safety, I would move that string for the blind to the other end if you can..
one little breeze through an open window while you're cooking and your kitchen will be ablaze..

anyway, took the liberty of doodling on your drawing to give you an idea what to get done..

View media item 9246

 

[BARCUD]

Well ColJack, ta very much for that.

I've been a teacher for many years and I discovered a long time ago that some kids can't grasp written instructions and learn better with pictures

I took the floorboards up and managed to get the cooker switch flex up and down the wall you suggest. I'll connect it to a cooker switch, down to an unswitched FCU, then to the cooker.

As for the hood ? I'll get back to you with that one.

Now, to contact the LAPD

see ya later, BARCUD

 

[ColJack]

if you clip to the wall, and continue your boxing to the corner, then it's more than 50mm from the surface and doesn't need RCD protection..

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Yup - for sure you have to move that CCU somewhere else, and the side wall would be good. I know it's more work, but I'd be tempted to run the cable from the it back up the wall, then through the ceiling void, and then down the wall behind the cooker to an FCU there, rather than having it on the wall to the side of the cooker, with the cable on show.

Also, I think it would be a good idea to build a small platform for the cooker to raise it so that the hob surface and worktop are are at the same level...

 

[ColJack]

he's wound the leveling feet all the way down to fit it under the existing cooker switch

it probably has leveling feet by the way.. have a look, might be enough adjustment to make up the difference..

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Ah - didn't think of that.

Kitchen work surfaces are all too low anyway..

 

[BARCUD]

Thanks guys for the comments.

Yes, the cooker will be raised now the switch has been removed.

I'm working on the cooker tomorrow so I might be popping back in for a chat !?

BARCUD

 

[BARCUD]

Hi guys, as suggested I'm popping in for a chat.

Erm, I am allowed to move the cooker by releasing the bayonet type pipe aren't I ?

Surely I don't need to get the fitter in again so I can do the work and then get the fitter in again to put the cooker back ?

BARCUD

 

[ColJack]

best asked in the plumbing section..
the only thing I know what to do with a gas pipe is bond it..

 

[BARCUD]

Cheers, I went to plumbing , had a 'search', and it seems okay to remove and replace the cooker myself with the bayonet type fitting as it is self sealing.

Hey ho, cooker out, wall channelling done, fix backing boxes and reroute wiring this afternoon.

as ever, thanks, BARCUD

 

[ColJack]

put a plastic "baggie" over the end of the bayonet connector ( both ends probably..) to keep the dust out...

 

[BARCUD]

Hi again, SO, basically I've just rerouted the cooker switch and fused box to the wall next to the cooker using the original wiring.

NOW, if the fused spar is to go above the hood where do I get the feed from ?

as ever many thanks, BARCUD