Cutting Barrel Steel Pipework For new cylinder

[JackK]

On S-plan each valve actuator has a microswitch which closes when the valve is fully open, and fires the boiler. This ensures at least one valve is open when the boiler fires, so unlikely to need a bypass. You can check there's a microswitch on your existing HW valve.

I only have one two port valve installed and that does not connect to the boiler. It only closes the valve to stop flow coming into it

So are you sure about what you have said

 

[fixitflav]

I only have one two port valve installed and that does not connect to the boiler. It only closes the valve to stop flow coming into it

So are you sure about what you have said

Yes, at the moment the 2-port valve doesn't need to control the boiler, as with your pipe set-up you can't dead-head the boiler. But if you convert to S-plan, the microswitch on each valve must connect to the boiler, as I described. I'm sure your current valve has one, but worth checking.
Incidentally, what fires the boiler at present? Do you have a roomstat, or switch it on manually?

 

[JackK]

Yes, at the moment the 2-port valve doesn't need to control the boiler, as with your pipe set-up you can't dead-head the boiler. But if you convert to S-plan, the microswitch on each valve must connect to the boiler, as I described. I'm sure your current valve has one, but worth checking.
Incidentally, what fires the boiler at present? Do you have a roomstat, or switch it on manually?

It’s a manual programmer thermostat

So both two port calves need to be motorised back to the boiler in an s plan. I did not know that

 

[fixitflav]

So both two port valves need to be motorised back to the boiler in an s plan. I did not know that

You can easily find an S-plan wiring diagram on the internet.

 

[JackK]

Its me again and I am about to cut into the pipework to add an air vent. I admit I know nothing about this so am trying to learn

Is this area where I want to put the AAV - I bout a 22mm compression tee with a 15mm to fit a cafelli auto air vent.

We have not had hot water for a number of days - Any advice much appreciated - Thank you so much

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Yes, air vent needs to go in at the highest point, but personally I'd save myself a whole world of pain, and rejig that pipework so it comes straight off the steel and heads downwards, allowing any air to escape up the vent as its designed to do.

 

[JackK]

Yes, air vent needs to go in at the highest point, but personally I'd save myself a whole world of pain, and rejig that pipework so it comes straight off the steel and heads downwards, allowing any air to escape up the vent as its designed to do.

Thanks - I cant cut the steel pipework because I do not feel comfortable doing so and i will have to rethread the pipework if i did so - I will add an AAV and see if that helps.

Will the AAV cause any problems or just unsightly?

Should have got a custom made cylinder with flow on right hand side and return on left but as it was stainless steel that option was not possible and we needed something pretty urgently !

Any other suggestions or advice before i do it appreciated - Thank you

 

[jeff the gasman]

Just do it! It’ll be fine!

 

[JackK]

It worked great. Thank you so much - Solved the problem and grateful to this forum

 

[JackK]

So new cylinder is in - And I still have brown water coming from kitchen tap.

I have ruled out a cylinder being compromised with the coil as I have just replaced the cylinder so what else can it be? I do have some steel barrel pipework under the floor before it joins the hot water kitchen tap so is it possible that this is giving the water brown colour? The steel pipe being corroded and flushing away some debris?

I know for a fact that the cold is on mains pressure and the hot is connected and drawing off the hot water cylinder

 

[jeff the gasman]

Give it a little time flushing through and see if it settles down.

 

[JackK]

Give it a little time flushing through and see if it settles down.

I left it running for a good hour - Came back after thirty minutes and I still see brown water and sediment - Its only on the kitchen hot tap - The other hot taps are fine

Do I need to trace the hot water pipe back to the cylinder because I expect this is all in low carbon steel?

 

[jeff the gasman]

It’ll need replacing mate!

 

[JackK]

It’ll need replacing mate!

Do you mean the pipe to the kitchen tap or something else ? Any chance it is the tap or are you sure it is the pipe work

 

[jeff the gasman]

Steel pipework shouldn’t be used on fresh water systems !
Galvanised was used when necessary but not recommended due to corrosion!
Without seeing the pipework it’s hard to tell what’s causing your discolouration.
Pictures would help.