double electric oven and seperate induction hob

[piper64]

Hi EFL, I did see the cable sizing chart that you linked to, so I went out and measured the cable.

How did you find that information about the Indesit hob? I looked, including the Indesit website and found nothing of any use. Thanks.

Next question..

The oven is one one side of the kitchen, the hob is about 2m away opposite.

The main cooker box will be by the oven. What is the usual method of having two appliances like these running off the same circuit, when they are at separate locations?

 

[EFLImpudence]

How did you find that information about the Indesit hob? I looked, including the Indesit website and found nothing of any use. Thanks.

Just Googled a lot.

The oven is one one side of the kitchen, the hob is about 2m away opposite.

Oh, that's a pity.
Is running a cable from the present location across to the new the most convenient?

Are there floorboards under which the cable can be run across the room?
Around the room clipped to the skirting would do if there are units all the way.

The main cooker box will be by the oven. What is the usual method of having two appliances like these running off the same circuit, when they are at separate locations?

That would be acceptable.
It's only 'recommended' to be within two metres so ...

 

[piper64]

Currently the kitchen is bare. No ceiling at all or wall coverings, plasterer hasn't been in yet, so running wires wherever needed is fairly do-able at the moment.

Is the 2m recommendation 'as the crow flies' or cable length?

What's the correct way to have both appliances wired up? Is it simply a matter of looping a secondary cable back from the main cooker switch to a wallplate for the hob? Basically using the cooker switch as a tee junction?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Is the 2m recommendation 'as the crow flies' or cable length?

As the crow flies.
The actual cooker switch is only 'required' if you consider it necessary for 'emergency switching' and only then the recommended two metres comes into play.
If not considered for such purpose, merely isolation, then it does not matter where it is placed.

What's the correct way to have both appliances wired up? Is it simply a matter of looping a secondary cable back from the main cooker switch to a wallplate for the hob? Basically using the cooker switch as a tee junction?

I would use a double cooker connector at the first position from which to run the cable to the second. It's simpler.
You can use 6mm² cable for the hob if not run in conduit or through any thermal insulation.

 

[piper64]

Thanks.

Looking for double cooker connector and I keep seeing these:
http://www.alertelectrical.com/prod...5a-easyfit-dual-appliance-cooker-outlet-plate

However, this is an outlet plate so the outgoing wires are not designed to be plastered in.

 

[EFLImpudence]

No, that's right.

I was thinking you would just go down the wall into the floor or similar.


In that case, connect to switch as you said.

 

[piper64]

OK, not sure I'd be putting any cables in the floor though. Is that even legal?

I'd have to look at the dual outlet box and see if there is scope to loop one of the outgoing cables back up the wall.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Are there floorboards under which the cable can be run across the room?
Around the room clipped to the skirting would do if there are units all the way.

 

[piper64]

My misunderstanding, I was reading 'floorboards' as meaning below the upper floor ie: in the ceiling of the kitchen.

As it's a complete bare bones refit, being clipped to the skirting is't an option, even in trunking. With two doors in the kitchen it would be impossible too, unless I went up over the frame.

Thanks for the suggestions though. It's most likely easier than I am assuming, it's just working out how to get one cooker feed to go to two different areas of the kitchen AND keep the cabling hidden.

 

[piper64]

Thanks for all the suggestions.

I got my sparky in to get it sorted regarding diversity and the likelyhood of it going pop, he was confident it all worked out fine. Re-routed the original 10mm cooker cabling to the new position, by going up and across the ceiling, then down the wall into a 'click' double outlet plate.
http://www.alertelectrical.com/prod/1022/click-45a-easyfit-dual-appliance-outlet-plate-prw217

That 10mm cable is like bending copper pipe, so to make it easier to position the cables I mounted the 'click' box sideways, so one 10mm cable goes off down to the new oven and the other goes off up the wall, chased in, over the ceiling and down to an outlet behind the proposed induction hob. I say 'proposed', because we are still not decided on whether to go gas or electric on the hob.

I'll start another thread regarding peoples opinions on these induction hobs.....

 

[bernardgreen]

If the box is sideways and the cable coming out of it is initially horizontal and then turns to go up the wall then how did you comply with safe zone requirements ?

 

[JohnW2]

If the box is sideways and the cable coming out of it is initially horizontal and then turns to go up the wall then how did you comply with safe zone requirements ?

I may be wrong, but I don't think that's what the OP is describing - I think that both cables go vertically (up and down) from the 'sideways box'. To do as you suggest would really make no sense given that his explanation of the reason for what he has done is that bending 10mm² cable is "like bending copper pipe" (he obviously hasn't tried 16 mm² T&E ).

If my interpretation is correct, the cables will be within safe zones.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ericmark]

I have used two induction hobs mine and my mothers. Mine has been great as luck had it controlled by knobs. My mothers was touch control and had to be ripped out again because in a wheel chair she could not see the touch controls angle of view would not allow it. Also found with hers touch controls are too slow to operate. With mine if a pan starts to boil over just turn knob with hers you needed to lift the pan as by time one had made the multi touches required to reduce heat pan had boiled over. Learn from her mistake and don't use touch controls they were great with non induction as easy clean but induction hob surface is not as hot so easy clean anyway so not required.

The power requirement is another thing. My largest ring can be set to 3.7kW on boost which seems great but in real terms never used. With so little waste of energy over 1.5kW and all you do is burn food on bottom of the pan only when boiling water is the boost ever used. So although the ratting may be high in real terms you never use all that power as no power is wasted.

My daughter has a gas hob rated 5.5kW and at maximum a 2.8kW kettle will boil water faster than the hob. In fact hob takes twice as long. With induction hob the 3kW area will boil same amount of water as in kettle at 2.8kW in the same time. But although it can boil that fast unlikely you will use it. I use the auto boil then simmer feature makes life so easy. Also unlike gas you can also turn very low mine has a chocolate melting setting. In other words it's faster and more controllable than gas.

Only problem with mine is when I engage the child lock on the controls my wife can't remember how to remove it.

 

[piper64]

@bernardgreen, JohnW2 is spot on.

 

[piper64]

eric, thanks for that.

I haven't seen any induction hobs with control knobs. I agree it would be a good idea, but it would spoil the asthetics somewhat.


I'd like to go the induction route, but will have to make sure that the cut out is the same as an alternative gas hob should I wish to change.