Fixing a heavy radiator to plasterboard partition wall

[ThinkAboutIt]

The house is only 3-4 years old so the last thing I want to be doing is ripping chunks of plasterboard out.

Incase anyone has come across them, does anyone know of floor standing vertical radiators thus taking the load off the wall.

Thanks

 

[Whitespirit66]

The house is only 3-4 years old so the last thing I want to be doing is ripping chunks of plasterboard out.

There's no ripping involved, a saw is used.

Hidden noggins, and a well filled repair will be fine. A nice rad mounted on a piece of board will look $hite.

Alternatively, you could find a stud, screw one side of the brackets directly into the stud, and use the heaviest duty plasterboard fixings for the other side. Not ideal, but better than other methods.

There are floor brackets, but they are more for standard horizontal rads. Will ruin the look of the new rads as well. Why go to the expense of a nice vertical rad, if you are willing to botch the job?

 

[ThinkAboutIt]

Fair comment, Ok but in order to screw the noggins to the joist I would have to either cut more than 1 hole or 1 very large hole?

Thats a frightening proposition for a diy novice.

If I were to use tradesmen, which trade, joiner to cut and put noggins in, then a plasterer to make good?

Any idea of cost?

 

[DP]

You can get cast iron floor standing radiators, but you will also need to assemble these and need deep pockets.

Best idea is find a stud, fit one bracket on it. Cut a hole (that will be hidden by the radiator) and insert a two by 4 piece of timber into the cavity. Rest one end on the base of cavity and fit the second bracket into the two by four. Close the hole up, hang the radiator.

OR as previously mentioned, locate two studs, measure the distance between two and see if you can get a radiator with same distance between the brackets. Have done this also.

 

[Whitespirit66]

Fair comment, Ok but in order to screw the noggins to the joist I would have to either cut more than 1 hole or 1 very large hole?

Thats a frightening proposition for a diy novice.

If I were to use tradesmen, which trade, joiner to cut and put noggins in, then a plasterer to make good?

Any idea of cost?

If you are up to basic woodwork, you could cut the plasterboard out with a plasterboard saw (see video), and do the noggins yourself, then get plasterer/handyman to make good. Or get them to put the noggins in too. Easily under 2 hours.

Watch the video, it's not too difficult. Minor imperfections will be hidden by the rad. The main priority is getting the thing fitted securely, as it's a lot of weight.

 

[Bahco]

Just use plasterboard fixings.
Never had one fail yet.

Your a brave man Seco.

 

[Whitespirit66]

Just use plasterboard fixings.Never had one fail yet.

Your a brave man Seco.

Unless the rad is behind the mother in law's favourite chair.

 

[cumbriahandyman]

At this weight, you really do need to get it right, coz if the fixings fail, the pipes will snap and you will have a flood on your hands/floor.

S o d s law guarantees that when it fails you will be away for the day or even abroad.

 

[looneyfitter]

Simples, get your self a sheet of 9 or 12mm mdf, cut it the same height as your brackets and the full width, bracket to bracket, grip fill lines on the Back And screw to plaster board and studs in a minimum of 8 points. Fill any holes, undercoat/paint or wall paper. Hang rad as you would job done

 

[namsag]

Firstly 70KG ar you sure of the weight that sounds way too heavy as one i have just fitted is 1800 by 560 and is only 19kg.
And a standard 1600/600 double rad is only 48kg.

Anyway the weight will be mainly a downward force as opposed to a falling forward off the wall force so if you can get a fixing on a stud on one side you should be ok with proper plaster board fixings on the other.

Only other thing is are you sure you have a stud wall as some modern houses are not stud walls they come complete with a honeycomb centre of cardboard. and may not have any proper stud in it at all so all suggestions of cutting open and putting noggins in are void

 

[ThinkAboutIt]

The heaviest I've seen was 70kg but most verticals that pump out around 7000btu are atleast 50kg. 50 or 70 I was thinking the course of action would be the same. 20 - 30kg I would imagine could just go up with heavy duty fixings?

The wall has stud screws showing through the plaster every 600mm so am guessing that's a stud wall.

 

[DP]

800 or 1400 Heatline radiator would catch both studs so no need to start modifying walls

 

[Tipper]

Simples, get your self a sheet of 9 or 12mm mdf, cut it the same height as your brackets and the full width, bracket to bracket, grip fill lines on the Back And screw to plaster board and studs in a minimum of 8 points. Fill any holes, undercoat/paint or wall paper. Hang rad as you would job done

MDF won't be strong enough. Screws can pull out. Chipboard's no good either.

Use ply which is much stronger due to its cross grain layers.

 

[ThinkAboutIt]

Thanks for all the suggestions, looks like I'm going to put it on an outside wall and fasten blocks of wood to the brick work, plaster over the top and screw through the cavity in mentioned wooden block. Should do the trick.

In addition anyone heard of Reina radiators, they seem very good value for money, or does that mean steer clear. They seem the only company to fit the bill with design, size and btu.

 

[looneyfitter]

Simples, get your self a sheet of 9 or 12mm mdf, cut it the same height as your brackets and the full width, bracket to bracket, grip fill lines on the Back And screw to plaster board and studs in a minimum of 8 points. Fill any holes, undercoat/paint or wall paper. Hang rad as you would job done

MDF won't be strong enough. Screws can pull out. Chipboard's no good either.

Use ply which is much stronger due to its cross grain layers.

25mm 6's screwed into mdf arnt going anywhere mucka