Flueless or not? that is the question!

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Hi guys, Just taken out a stone fire surround at home, so now back to plaster and bare brick.
I have small gas fire that takes the chill off but don't kick a great deal of heat out.
Now she who must be obeyed :evil: Is wanting a new gas fire, she's in to the new modern trendy stuff so been looking at flueless hang on the wall ones but they don't seem to kick a great deal of heat out.
So may just remove old fire and replace it with a newer model (should do that with the :evil: one too), but this fire is not located central on the wall and that will be an issue with the :evil: one!
Any suggestion and friendly advice would be appreciated in what is best to do.
Please may I add, all the gas work will be done by a qualified gas safe engineer.
 
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flueless fires are deathtraps! you will need a big drafty air vent too.
 
married / cohabitating man fits flueless fire = singleman in jail

do not obey on this occassion unless you want rid of her indoors on a permanent basis and like the hospitality of her majesty's jails!

and if it made by focalshite go straight to jail, do not pass go and do not collect £200!
 
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flueless fires are deathtraps! you will need a big drafty air vent too.
So stick to the traditional flued ones,
As I said the Chimney stack where the flue goes up, is off center of the wall. Is it possible to work it so a liner can be diverted to the centre of the wall and fed fire via flue opening.
 
yes you can get open flued fires that will accept a flue liner if you wish. May be worth having the chimney swept at the same time; best get a pro in as it's got to be done right.


Carbon Monoxide detectors are a good idea too.
 
Open flue fire still waste about half of the gas that you burn, and that is not taking into account the draft/ventilation. Still better than flueless, which is total rubbish.
If it is only to safe money by not turning the ch on, forget the whole fire; the extra heatloss from the draft during the months that you do use the ch will far greater than the little bit of gas you safe by not turning the ch on.
 
Hi bengasman thanks for the info,
As it stands the front room where the fire is going has no rads/central heating and the current fire is the only means of this.
The fire place being used had been made of stone and built out from the wall plus the hearth. This took quite a bit of the space up in the room so removed it.
The house is having a bit of a revamp, so I intend to have a rad fitted in the room during the revamp and replace the fire.
I intend for the rad to be the main source of heating but the fire not only to be decorative but give that immediate heat on cold day.
Is there a more ecconomical way to this?
 
Apart from a roomsealed fire with a balanced flue, every fire with an open flue will have create a natural draft through the chimney which will suck heat out 24/7, 365 days a year. If they you have central heating as well, this will cause the central heating to be on longer, regardless of how and when.
The only option that does not have this side effect is the aforementioned balanced flue fire.
Even without the loss by draft, if you add the installation and maintenance cost of the extra appliance and the low efficiency of fires, you will never recover the investment, let alone safe money.
 
Hi bengasman thanks for the info,
As it stands the front room where the fire is going has no rads/central heating and the current fire is the only means of this.
The fire place being used had been made of stone and built out from the wall plus the hearth. This took quite a bit of the space up in the room so removed it.
The house is having a bit of a revamp, so I intend to have a rad fitted in the room during the revamp and replace the fire.
I intend for the rad to be the main source of heating but the fire not only to be decorative but give that immediate heat on cold day.
Is there a more ecconomical way to this?

A log burning stove may be a better cheaper solution.
 
Is it possible to work it so a liner can be diverted to the centre of the wall and fed fire via flue opening

Not without some major building work.

I intend for the rad to be the main source of heating but the fire not only to be decorative but give that immediate heat on cold day

Put in an 1.5 - 2kw electric fire. They look the part and no draughts.
 
Not without some major building work..
Now leaning towards putting the fire in the original spot.
But what major work, would be need?
Would be a case of removing a section of bricks, supporting the area with RSJ/concrete lintel, to create a path to existing flue.
Put in an 1.5 - 2kw electric fire. They look the part and no draughts.
I don't rate them as an immediate heat source.
 
A log burning stove may be a better cheaper solution.
I had one in my last house, a little montrose and it was great, a little messy at times but all the same great heat and cheap to run.
Unfortunately she who must be obeyed did not take to my suggestion regarding having one fitted.
Plus the problem with chimney flue not being central would still cause a problem.
because I manage to open the whole chimney breast at my previous house and looked great, the house was old traditional, stone built cottage and the effect was superb.
This house is a little more modern.
 
I done a bit of reading on the carbon monoxide detectors sold in the uk, and it seems cheap imports from China are failing after a few months. Apparently a few years ago only one CO unit out of a total of 30 sold in the uk at that time passed all Health & Safety tests and that was the SF450EN (the only Honeywell model) which is found on this site http://www.carbon-monoxide-detectors.co.uk
I have 4 children and am not prepared to buy the cheap units on the market !
 

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