Hermann icon 23t . Diaphragm change...

[shmelv]

From a couple of posts/opinion ive heard and read the diaphragm change or diverter valve change on one of these icon models is a horrible job.

The rebranded glowworm/travis perkins.


basically no HW on the boiler heating absolutely fine, pretty certain the diaphragm has perished and I have a service kit to replace the diaphragm, never seen one of these before.

could anyone advise :

just how much of a pain really is this to change ?

I have seen one or two claims that the diaphragm CAN be changed in situ.. has anyone tried this and if so how.

otherwise could anyone with experience on this boiler please offer any advice tips on the best way to tackle this .

cheers!

 

[HootingOwl]

it can be done in situ but you have to cut bits of the metalwork and have hands smaller than those of a house elf to get access.

on paper it sounds easy - drain it all down and isolate incoming supply. take off the microswitch and undo the nuts on the valve - then lift it upwards before pulling it out of the boiler with the plate heat exchanger still attached.

towels will be needed else you will soak the electrics and kill the boiler.

good luck.

 

[mickyg]

the diaphragm can be changed in situ, its still a pig. Im one of the few people who now how to do it, seeing as it was I who worked it out at GS and passed it on. Trouble is its really hard to explain. Essentially you'll need a ton of grease potentially a spare oring where the top half of the DV inserts into the plate, and an ability to do a fiddly job. The most important bit, is holding the pin and plate down while you remove the top, so that it clears the top of the pin. You need to force it a little too. It will make sense when you start
As for removing the whole valve, Ive done quite a few, they are always a pig, and a good 2-3hrs for your first go. Removing some of the casing makes it easier as does a good quality basin wrench. You will need all the washers, especially the 1" washer at the bottom end of the DV, this must be rubber, a fibre one will make it nigh on impossible to get the thread started. As stated, the easiest way is to remove the DV and plate as one unit and seperate and rebuild before refitting.

I will add one other thing as you havent indicated either way, neither of these jobs I would recommend to a diyer. Additonally at probably 10yrs old now and with a price tag of £350, might be the case the boiler owes you nothing more at this point

 

[Agile]

I think that I did one once and it certainly was a pig.

Worse it had been failed for some time and the manifold section had seized up and I had to chemically clean it in situ.

Replace the boiler is better option.

Tony