Hi
how easy is to chnage from honeywell wiring centre to 10 way junction box???
how easy is to chnage from honeywell wiring centre to 10 way junction box???
how easy
- Thread starter stevewill20
- Start date
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Just one question..........Why would you want to? unless its damaged. They are much simpler to follow.(wiring by numbers) and less confusing for diyers.
think the existing one is damaged. only getting about 50v being sent down to the programmer
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probably more to do with him blowing the fuse then putting in a 13a fuse and trying again
Do people seriously do that?!
Mr. W.
I agree it is unlikely that the Honeywell wiring centre is causing the 50v.
However, it is by no means impossible, we have been out on two faults in the last five years or so where the printed circuit on the rear of the wiring centre has been arcing.
Really difficult to find, too, because you always assume the fault is elsewhere, and the board is riveted to the base plastic of the box. I was there till 10pm on the first one, I assume nothing now.
We don't use them now, prefer the Drayton LWC1 or the similar Danfoss version. No silly and pointless uninsulated fuse holders in these to get a shock off, either.
However, it is by no means impossible, we have been out on two faults in the last five years or so where the printed circuit on the rear of the wiring centre has been arcing.
Really difficult to find, too, because you always assume the fault is elsewhere, and the board is riveted to the base plastic of the box. I was there till 10pm on the first one, I assume nothing now.
We don't use them now, prefer the Drayton LWC1 or the similar Danfoss version. No silly and pointless uninsulated fuse holders in these to get a shock off, either.
Have you tried taking the programmer L&N feed cables out of the Honeywell terminal block and placing them in the main 230v mains input terminal connectors?
This will prove whether the wiring centre is your problem.
Changing one out is simple but commonly messed up by DIYers......and some so called heating engineers
This will prove whether the wiring centre is your problem.
Changing one out is simple but commonly messed up by DIYers......and some so called heating engineers
just replaced wiring centre with the simple 10 way 15A junction all works fine. phewww.
Now just need to work out how to wire in new wireless dt92E
existing system has 3 core red blue and yellow 1 2 3 E . new has N L L A B C
connected yellow to B as switched live.
Red to A with link to L
blue to neutral.
system on continually does not swith off??
old stat had 1 2 3 E new has N L L A B C can find anywhere what the letter translate backwards to???
Now just need to work out how to wire in new wireless dt92E
existing system has 3 core red blue and yellow 1 2 3 E . new has N L L A B C
connected yellow to B as switched live.
Red to A with link to L
blue to neutral.
system on continually does not swith off??
old stat had 1 2 3 E new has N L L A B C can find anywhere what the letter translate backwards to???
does the dt92E wireless require wiring straight to the boiler not the wiring centre. if so how does the pump get the signal to pump?
the wiring centre. if so how does the pump get the signal to pump?
I suspect you have wired as per diagram A on your instruction sheet.
This would give a permanant live output.
Wire up as per diagram B. Red to A. Yellow to B.
This will now use the boiler live to switch on and off.
This would give a permanant live output.
Wire up as per diagram B. Red to A. Yellow to B.
This will now use the boiler live to switch on and off.
should I remove the link from A to L?
cheers
cheers
currently stat connects to 3 port onto the programmer via 1 , to the neutral via 2 and whiteof 3 port via 3.
I have connected .
Red to A with link to L ( should link be removed, i no perm live)
yellow to B as switched live
as conncted above gave perm on.
I have connected .
Red to A with link to L ( should link be removed, i no perm live)
yellow to B as switched live
as conncted above gave perm on.
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