How to replace fascia board butt joint

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Sorry, if this is a trivial question, but this is something I've never done and I'm not really sure how these things are attached.

My issue, is that after only 5 years, the following fascia board joint has cracked:



There's some flexibility in the right hand piece i.e. it can be pushed to close the gap. I was considering using some silicon sealant to try to "glue" it closed and seal the joint, but then wondered how difficult it would be to replace the joint.

Is it unusual for a joint like this to break as it has done. I'm not sure how much force would have been required for this to happen, maybe the fascia board joints are not so strong?

I'm assuming the jointing piece is glued on? I can't see any sign of screws or nails. So my first job would be to prise it off without doing too much damage? I think these things are L shaped, so it fits underneath the board, but wouldn't go around the top of the board? If it does, I assume I would need to remove the guttering to get access.

So, assuming I can get a replacement joint and I can prise it off, what should I use to "glue" the new joint in place? If it is plastic, I have some solvent glue I use for plastic waste pipes, or would it need to be something like silicon that allows movement?

Thank you in advance for any help and advice you can give.
 
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Its been glued with superglue or similar both sides of the fascia joint, as it expands and contracts the joiner splits.
glue one side to allow movement
 
You may struggle to get the old one off. These trims are L shaped and you can cut them to height. You don’t need to take gutter off, just push up behind and stick it on. Stick with polymer grab type adhesive not plain silicone
 
As datarebel above, the crack is what appears to be a "split" not a joint, if you really enlarge the close up image you provided, you can see it is a slightly jagged line, not straight as one would expect to see in a join.

As for a fix?? how about you glue to one side an "L" shaped cover??

Ken.
 
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Pin the right hand side so that the jointer is back in position. Then silicone.

could do with another fixing in the fascia rh side, while your at it

I had considered that maybe this was what had caused the joint to break and it should have more fixings.

Is there a special type of fixing for these things? I notice all the other fixings have a cap. I assume this is just a screw through the fascia board into the wood (?) below and then capped. A couple of years ago I painted all the fascia board and guttering to match the windows, so it's difficult to see what the fixings are like without damaging the paint, which will need to be done for a new joint anyway.
 
Poly pins,
 

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Poly pins,

Nice. I've never seen those before. I assume that using a hammer to fix them doesn't break the plastic head? I was also looking at possibly using a plastic dome screw cover as I may even have some of these lying around somewhere. Maybe a number plate cap! I only need a couple and it wouldn't be too much trouble to drill a pilot hole through the fascia board and use a screw to fix it, with a plastic cap.
 
Its been glued with superglue or similar both sides of the fascia joint, as it expands and contracts the joiner splits.
glue one side to allow movement

Just read an article that suggests the joints should only be glued to one side of the fascia board to allow for movement. This seems to make sense, but I'm sure that isn't the case with my fascias.

Does it have to be a "special" type of super glue or would a household product like locticte super glue be fine?
 
You can use your solvent glue to the jagged edge and this will adhere to make the joint secure. It’s not going to move with the extra fixings you are putting in. Allow to dry, use some wet and dry or fine sandpaper and touch up the damaged areas and voila.
 
If you are going to struggle getting the old one off then consider gluing the new one over the old.
 
As catlad above, you will cause more damage in attempting a removal of two well glued on areas of plastic, what has possibly happened is during a very cold spell the plastic has contracted, hence the jagged split.

During a hot spell in Summer the crack will close up. best option as above glue a cover strip to one side of the crack only.

At that height you will never ever see it, and the bonus, a very cheap fast fix???

Ken
 
Thanks for the suggestions guys they have been very useful.

Today I purchased a replacement fascia joint piece from Toolstation for £1.77. I already have some super glue and number plate screws with white caps.

Because I have a fein multimaster, I thought this could be used to remove the existing piece, rather than trying to prise it off, which is likely to cause a lot of damage.

I just need another sunny day to entice me outside, but it looks like I'll have to wait until later in the week!
 

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