Old conservatory base built nearly to damp course

[Beginerz]

As mentioned within a thread on another subject, we have removed an old conservatory which was around 30 years old. We are now left with the concrete base and at present it is holding water when it raina which does pool up to the rear wall of the house. The base seems to be slightly lower on the right hand side on these images, as about an inch of the DPC can be seen above the base on the far right. Towards the left hand side of the base near the back door, the base seems to be flush with the DPC and no blue bricks can be seen above it.

An ACO rain drain set against the rear was suggested to me as a possible cost effective solution, running towards the downpipe which can be seen on the right.

Would this be acceptable and protect the house from potential damp?

In time ideally we may wish to have the whole base removed and paved but at the moment we may wish to keep the cost down as much as possible.

Thanks all.

 

[aveatry]

Hmmm, by the time you have cut away the concrete next to the wall to fit the linier drain I think you will of solved the problem without the expense of putting buying the drain. But you will end up with a trench to step over. If the long term plan is to remove the concrete altogether then you are wasting money on the drain.
How about this for a cheap fix, buy some shed gutter and cut away enough concrete to accommodate it then cover the whole concrete area with decking including the bodge shed gutter. Or use the plastic click together tiles which you can remove for maintenance of the gutter.

 

[aveatry]

Or just grind out a shallow drainage channel as close to the house as you can get an angle grinder in.

 

[Beginerz]

Hmmm, by the time you have cut away the concrete next to the wall to fit the linier drain I think you will of solved the problem without the expense of putting buying the drain. But you will end up with a trench to step over. If the long term plan is to remove the concrete altogether then you are wasting money on the drain.
How about this for a cheap fix, buy some shed gutter and cut away enough concrete to accommodate it then cover the whole concrete area with decking including the bodge shed gutter. Or use the plastic click together tiles which you can remove for maintenance of the gutter.

Or just grind out a shallow drainage channel as close to the house as you can get an angle grinder in.

Thanks both. If I went down the cutting a channel route would it be an idea to fill up a bit with gravel for aesthetics and to avoid a step?

And would it be advised to reduce the height of any gravel from the current concrete height to protect the damp proof course which the current slab is pretty close to?

 

[Notch7]

Or just grind out a shallow drainage channel as close to the house as you can get an angle grinder in.

I reckon this is the answer

Just cut a channel with a mini grinder and a diamond disc. And then an SDS with rooftop drill to break out the bit in the middle

If it was 100mm away from the house that might be best as you wouldn't be channelling all the water against the house.

You don't need a big channel, 50mm wide x says 35mm deep would do. Leave it empty and keep it swept clear of leaves

Bear in mind until you remove the base, your house wall will suffer a bit from rain splash

 

[aveatry]

I think an angle grinder with diamond blade and cut a simple V will save any extra chisleing.
If you do not have the equipment then you are looking at hiring and if you are going to do that then maybe hire a breaker and take the lot out yourself. then leave the pile of rubble until you have the funds for a skip.

 

[Koolpc]

If that were mine, i would dig it all up. Do it once, do it properly.

 

[Beginerz]

A friend of mine has an angle grinder and knows what he's doing with it too.

Any idea of the cost of getting someone in to remove the whole thing out of interest? Skip we probably wouldn't need as friend has a van.

 

[aveatry]

There will be more rubble than you think and depending on your local tip they sometimes charge for rubble. I'm guessing about 2 tons worth. A local tip to me charges £350 for a bag !!!
Sorry no idea with the cost, have a go yourself.

 

[Beginerz]

There will be more rubble than you think and depending on your local tip they sometimes charge for rubble. I'm guessing about 2 tons worth. A local tip to me charges £350 for a bag !!!
Sorry no idea with the cost, have a go yourself.

Getting rid of most of the concrete shouldn't be too much of a problem it would be more cutting a straight line against the old brick work to reveal the old DPC rear wall of the house again which might be difficult.

Would it be a case of angle grinding a line against the wall?

 

[JohnD]

I was thinking grind a slot, say, 200mm from the house, then use a breaker to smash it away and shovel it out to form a drainage and ventilation trench.

Cobbles or pebbles are better than gravel, the gaps are bigger so they drain better and have negligible capillarity.. leaving it open is better still.

 

[aveatry]

Getting rid of most of the concrete shouldn't be too much of a problem it would be more cutting a straight line against the old brick work to reveal the old DPC rear wall of the house again which might be difficult.

Would it be a case of angle grinding a line against the wall?

In the case of complete removal I would start from the open end and work towards the house then when you get to the DPC house bricks the concrete hopefully should come away fairly easy leaving parts of stubborn cement which you will want to chisle off with the remaining stain being removed with an acid brick cleaner.

 

[Beginerz]

I was thinking grind a slot, say, 200mm from the house, then use a breaker to smash it away and shovel it out to form a drainage and ventilation trench.

Cobbles or pebbles are better than gravel, the gaps are bigger so they drain better and have negligible capillarity.. leaving it open is better still.

Please ignore my username being true and me being a beginner, but what is a 'breaker'?

Pebbles might be a nice idea if we choose that route.

In the case of complete removal I would start from the open end and work towards the house then when you get to the DPC house bricks the concrete hopefully should come away fairly easy leaving parts of stubborn cement which you will want to chisle off with the remaining stain being removed with an acid brick cleaner.

Thanks for that. Would it be grinding and chiseling to break it up?


Are there likely to be foundations here does anyone think, solid concrete (looks like it?) or slab on a frame?

 

[aveatry]

If you are lucky it will be a slab of concrete - if you are unlucky they may of put some reinforcing mesh in there which will make it a nightmare to get up.
Grinding to remove any will not touch it, you will need a breaker like this or bigger https://www.hss.com/hire/p/te2000-medium-duty-breaker

 

[JohnD]

I had in mind grinding a slot so that when you use the breaker afterwards, you have more chance of a neat straight edge on the trench beside the house. The thinner the concrete, the more likely it is to work (unless you hire a big road menders cutter)